Etching with acid is a good solution (no pun intended).
Tom B. '57 Stepside 3200
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Clark [SMTP:jclark1@utk.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 12:38 PM
To: tburt@hirose.com
Cc: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] more paint questions
Tom:
If you are just dealing with paint, a stripper or a sander is probably a
better choice. But for a rusted surface, I like sandblasting. After all,
the rust has already deformed the surface. If done properly, sandblasting
can reach into a lot of the pits where rust can hide that you can't get by
sanding. Also, it makes a semi-rough surface that paint adheres very well
to. I also use an acid etch primer to assure good adhesion. My 2 cents worth.
Joe
At 11:50 AM 5/5/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Grant,
>Just a shot in the dark:
>The way I understand it is that sandblasting peens the surface and
>subsequently deforms the sheet metal. I wouldn't recommend sandblasting at
>all on sheet metal. Frames and castings - OK.
>
>Tom B. '57 Stepside 3200
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Grant Galbraith [SMTP:trks@javanet.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 10:59 AM
>To: Joe Clark
>Cc: Eric Johnson; oletrucks@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] more paint questions
>
>I would have to agree with Joe here. I also have warped doors sandblasting
>and it
>can happen fast. I now limit my blasting to curved and re-inforced areas.
>I
>would be afraid to let anyone blast a nice straight roof. Is it possible to
>have
>it bead blasted?
> I try to paint anything the same day I strip it. I follow Bob ADler's
>advice in
>his This Old Truck Articles and etch prime followed by epoxy prime. I would
>also
>try to weld in patches and straighten dents before you start blasting
>although
>you will most likely find more work to be done as you go especially if it's
>had a
>repaint before.
>
>My 2 cents, Grant 50 3100
>
>Joe Clark wrote:
>
>> Eric:
>> My only comment is tell them to "BE CAREFUL"! It is incredibly easy to
>warp
>> those large panels (the roof is particularly bad) with a heavy duty
>> sandblaster. I did it myself and thought I was doing everything right
>> (shooting at an angle, not too close) but still had some warpage that
>> required a lot of time to fix. I would think the sides on a suburban
>might
>> also be prone to warpage.
>> Joe
>>
>> At 08:39 PM 5/4/99 -0700, you wrote:
>> >I am going to have my 49 suburban sand blasted (body only) and was
>wondering
>> >if anyone has gone through this procedure before? I am thinking of
>having it
>> >metal sprayed Immediately afterwards,because at that point I won't worry
>> >about rust hardly and can take my time doing body repairs,paint
>prep,ect.
>> >Any suggestions or hands on experience with this journey I am about to
>set
>> >off on will really be appreciated .
>> >Eric J. 48 & 49 sub.
>> >
>> >> -----Original Message-----
>> >> From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
>> >> [mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of jvanho01@tir.com
>> >> Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:38 PM
>> >> To: MarkNoakes@aol.com; oletrucks@autox.team.net
>> >> Subject: Re: RE: [oletrucks] more paint questions
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> I would certainly second that. Especially if he would include GMC's.
>> >>
>> >> Jim V.
>> >>
>> >> At 07:15 PM 5/4/99 Tuesday -0400, MarkNoakes@aol.com wrote:
>> >> >Now, Bob, if we could only convince you to do that same package for
>the
>> >> >55/2-59 as well!
>> >> >
>> >> >Mark Noakes
>> >> >58/56 Suburban
>> >> >Knoxville, TN
>> >> >
>> >> >In a message dated 5/4/99 8:06:43 AM, you wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> ><<Just a note here. This is a horn that should be tooted. I bought
>this
>> >> >package from Bob about a year ago and am very happy with what I got.
>> >> >Well worth the price to have all of the color information in one
>place.
>> >> >
>> >> >Jeff Nelson
>> >> >1953 3600 (in pieces all over the shop)
>> >> >Paducah, KY
>> >> >
>> >> >> ----------
>> >> >> From: Advdesign1@aol.com[SMTP:Advdesign1@aol.com]
>> >> >> Reply To: Advdesign1@aol.com
>> >> >> Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 5:11 AM
>> >> >> To: bkn@cyberramp.net; oletrucks@autox.team.net
>> >> >> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] more paint questions
>> >> >>
>> >> >> In a message dated 05/03/99 02:33:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>> >> >> bkn@cyberramp.net writes:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> <<
>> >> >> Can anyone tell me the PPG / base coat clear coat paint codes for
>the
>> >> >> following colors:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Forester green
>> >> >> Seacrest green
>> >> >> Windsor blue
>> >> >> Mariner blue
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I made up a paint chart with color copy of chips. all the original
>> >> >> numbers
>> >> >> and currently mixable numbers. the numbers cover 1936-55 chev and
>I
>> >> >> have
>> >> >> chips for 51-54 Chev or GMC. Also there are copies of all my paint
>> >> >> and prep
>> >> >> articles. All this is oriented toward solving real world problems.
>> >> >> Priced at
>> >> >> $20. Interior colors, where they go and currently mixable formulae
>> >> >> are also
>> >> >> in the package. Excuse me for tooting my own horn.
>> >> >> Bob ADler
>> >> >> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
>> >> >> 1959
>> >> >>
>> >> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
>1959
>> >> >>>
>> >> >
>> >> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
>1959
>> >>
>> >> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
>1959
>> >>
>> >
>> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>> >
>> >
>> Joe Clark, Southern Appalachian Field Laboratory
>>
>> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
>
Joe Clark, Southern Appalachian Field Laboratory
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