In a message dated 4/27/99 10:14:23 PM Central Daylight Time,
FRVT83E@prodigy.com writes:
> Has anyone ever installed replacement rocker moldings or complete
> steps before? I would like to know if there is anything I should be
> aware of before I start! I need to do one of each on my sons truck.
> For the rocker, should I weld the new piece to the bottom of the step
> (after removing old) or butt weld either at the corner or 1/2" in on
> the step? I don't want to warp the existing step!
>
> Will the door posts move/flex when I remove the complete step or will
> everything stay in place? The cab is not mounted on the frame, it is
> sitting on the floor it that matters.
>
> Also going to do the inner and outer rear cab corners. Do I do
> outers first or inners?
>
> TIA
>
> Mike B. '56 8400 Wrecker :)
>
Mike,
I did the complete steps, rockers, and cab corners on my '57 about a year
ago. I did the cab corners first, removing the outer corner, then I repaired
the lower parts of the inner corners, then replacing the outer sections. As
you cut the outer metal off, be careful as you cut horizontally into the area
that the door seals against, because there is a piece of metal running up and
down just behind the door seam. If you look at the inside of the cab you can
see it, and avoid cutting through it as you cut the outside metal. As I
installed the new cab corner, I used one of those flange makers to make a lap
joint between the top of the new metal and the bottom of the old metal, but I
WOULD NOT do that again. It looks too bad on the inside. If I had it to do
over again, I would definitely butt weld it. Be very careful about the final
alignment before doing much welding. I'd just spot weld it, and check it in
every dimension, especially against the rear edge of the doors before welding
it all together. You'll need to make sure that your doors are adjusted
correctly before using them as an alignment aid for the rear cab corners.
I used the step and rockers that were made together in one piece, like the
originals (from Heavy Chevy). I had my cab off the frame, sitting on the
floor, and was worried about the rear door post moving also, so I made a
diagonal brace that went from the upper door hinge mounting bolts to the door
striker mounting bolts. I made it out of angle iron, and bolted it in place
before I cut anything out. To remove the old step, I drilled out the
original spot welds that I could get to, then cut the old steps out, leaving
a small amount (an inch or two) still attached where I couldn't get the spot
welds loose at first. I chiseled those areas loose one weld at a time, until
I had the entire step removed. I wire brushed everything very well before
starting to put them back. As I put them all back together, I welded
everything completely, to seal it all up and leave no areas for water to
collect between the seams. I welded a couple of inches at a time to avoid
overheating and warping the areas. When I was all done, I painted the entire
bottom of the cab. WHEW! I hope I don't ever have to do that again! Good
luck with your project!
Randy Underwood
CyrusR@aol.com
Springdale, AR
‘57 1/2 Ton
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|