On Tue, 9 Mar 1999 16:13:11 EST, you wrote:
>Howdy All,
>Casey here with an annoying carb problem, but first a question?
>What is the latest model of carb that will fit a '55 235 w/ stock intake?
>
>Now the Problem....
>If I do not drive the '47-2 thriftmaster EVERYDAY, the Gas goes back to the
>tank. This Bites, I have to choke and hope that there is enough left in the
>bowl to run untill the pump catches up. otherwise dead. I've an '55 235 with a
>rochester 1 bl carb. The carb looks old and glazed over with varnish from
>evaporated fuel. I was under the impresion that the bowl seal was bad and was
>leaking, not badly but enough to keep the outside upper bowl damp. The other
>day I noticed an exceptionally bad leak in the front of the seal, and whent
>too remove the carb, when I removed the gas line the reducer for the gas line
>into the carb was cracked in about 3 places, so I went to a FLAPS and got
>another reducer, Problem solved? not, It did seem to help, but now after 1+
>days the same thing. hummm. Any Ideas?
Oh, one thing this group has no shortage of, is ideas! Some are even right -
maybe this one will be too!
Ok, first off, the only reason for the gas to go back to the tank, would be if
there is a leak in the fuel line between the tank and the carb. There shouldn't
be any as this would also be a potential source for a leak, and ANY leak must be
found and corrected immediately. Now, granted, these carbs do seep a bit, but
it should not ever be what could be called a "drip", as then it has the
potential to contact something hot. Now, a possibility: if you do not have a
spacer between the carb and the intake manifold, the carb might be getting hot
enough to cause the fuel to evaporate out of the bowl, and then everytime you go
to start, you will have to wait for the bowl to fill up (while you spin the
starter), before the gas can get to the throat (bowl fills first I believe).
I am not sure what you mean by the "front of the seal"? Also, what was the
"reducer" made of to be broken in three places? Are we talking brass? If so,
someone got carried away, and that certainly would account for the leak to allow
the gas in the fuel line to flow backwards.
The carb you have is easy to rebuild (even if you have never done one. Just pay
attention to what you are doing and where the different parts go, and follow the
instructions in the kit exactly, and voila, a non-leaky well flowing carb. Then
work on getting the fuel lines and any leaks corrected. Not sure about the fuel
pump you are using, but maybe an electric might be in the works for you. Then,
as soon as you turn on the key, it is pumping that ole carb FULL of gas before
you even hit the starter.
And finally, SHAME on you for not driving the truck every day :-)
\
Rob
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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