I will certainly take the doors off now but what side of the hinges
should
I attack. The guy I had bought the truck from was trying to remove the D/S
door but had screwed up from what he told me. Needless to say the door is
hanging by the top hinge. Do I need to go at it from the side attached to
the door or the kick panel.?
Also all the talk about the camel hump heads has raised yet another
question. The 270 that came in the truck apparently knocks but has been
rebuilt with just 50 miles on it after it warms up. I have no idea why and
have considered a trade with a farmer down the road for his 327 with camel
hump heads.(straight across). I have already purchased a 283 from a '62
Apache with 60thousand and thought of replacing just the gaskets, plugs,
wires and fuel pump(we broke while pulling). I plan to run the 283 until I
put money into the 350 block I have and get it like I want it. Is the trade
worth it and if so should I run the 283 or the 327 until the 350 is set up
for show? Any help and suggestions appreciated. Or just plain opinions are
welcomed too!!!
Thanks,
Christian '59 GMC
150 napco stepside
----------
> From: Brad Newman <bkn@cyberramp.net>
> To: The Hansons <dustyrose@mcn.net>
> Cc: Lewis Osborn <losborn@teleport.com>; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Test - Plus a Question
> Date: Thursday, February 04, 1999 6:40 AM
>
> The Hansons wrote:
>
> > This is a very good question and I would like to know the same
> > answers. My
> > fiancee's parents have a garage with a low ceiling and I am unable to
> > move
> > the frame in the garage with the cab on it since removing the engine.
> > We
> > have discussed having four friends come out to the house to help but
> > that
> > is a task by itself. Should I remove the doors and front windshield
> > prior
> > to help eliminate some weight? The windshield will be replaced and one
> > door
> > also. If I should remove the doors prior, what is the best way of
> > attacking
> > the hinges? I am new at this whole restoring thing and there may be
> > more
> > stupid questions to follow. Thanks for the suggestions in advance.
> >
> > Christian
> > '59 GMC 3/4 ton napco stepside
> >
> > ----------
> > > From: Lewis Osborn <losborn@teleport.com>
> > > To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: [oletrucks] Test - Plus a Question
> > > Date: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 8:30 AM
> > >
> > > Now that all of the test messages have started to roll, I've got a
> > > thought. How about putting a hint in the body of the test message?
> > > Some little trick that you've found that makes something easier.
> > >
> > > Or, even a question. <G> Here's mine: I know this was discussed
> > not
> > > that long ago on the list, but I've been unable to come up with the
> > > right key words to find it. How heavy is the cab on a '40 Chev PU?
> > I'm
> > > trying to decide how to lift mine off of the chassis. I'm going to
> > have
> > > a problem lifting from overhead, so I'm thinking about jacking it
> > up,
> > > kind of like the way a house mover lifts a house, rolling the
> > chassis
> > > out from under it, then rolling a support framework underneath and
> > > letting it down on it.
> > >
> > > 2) What's the easiest way to roll the cab, so the bottom of it can
> > be
> > > prepped?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Lewis - K7LVO Valley of the Rogue-Medford, OR
> > > "The Forty" - 40 Chevy PU - One Owner
> > > http://www.teleport.com/~losborn/1940.html
> > >
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> > 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> > 1959
>
> For what its worth, I thought that I would throw my 2 cents in on the
> topic of removing cabs.
> I don't know exactly how much the cab on a my 40 weighs, but I do know
> that it is much lighter than the cab on my 49. I was able to lift and
> move the 40, with the doors still on, without any problemwith the help
> of 3 other guys. The 49 on the other hand was a beast. The same 3 guys
> and myself could barely budge it, so we ended up removing the doors and
> enlisting the help of 2 other guys that were standing around
> supervising.
> We put the cab on some home made saw horses (very short), and painted
> the firewall first. For the underside, we laid out a couple of pieces of
> old carpet and just pushed the cab over on it (on its back) to where we
> had a good view of the underside. Once these two areas were finished, we
> put the cab back on truck, using the same 4 or 6 guys as when we removed
> it. Once the cab was back on the frame and secured, then we finished
> painting the interior/exterior/doors etc. We thought that doing it like
> this would help eliminate scratching the cab as we put it back on the
> truck.
> Anyway, I hope this helps, or at least gives ya'll some ideas. I haven't
> done a TF yet, but that will change this weekend when I repay one of the
> guys that helped me remove my cab(s) by helping him tear down his 55
> 2nd. As far as I know, we are going to do it the same way as we did
> mine, so if anyone is interested, I can let you know how it compared to
> the others.
> Brad
>
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