Phil,
I knew a great race engine builder (sadly dead now), he said lock
tabs were redundant when he race preped my Austin Cooper 'S'
Engine. He used good bolts (like ARP) and lock-tite. Of course his
engine was impeccably clean as he rebuilt it. When I do mine, I
use 'Brake Cleaner' to clean the threads on the bolt and hole of
any lingering grease and oil before applying Locktite. New bolts
are preferable but not always readily available - you know how it
is.
Jeff Webster
Buy Classic Cars from America!
Http://www.BuyClassicCars.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-morgans@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-morgans@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Phil Roettjer
> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 9:14 AM
> To: morgans@autox.team.net; vintage-race@autox.team.net
> Subject: Bearing bolts
>
>
> Fellow list members,
> I am currently in the process of doing a winter
> checkout on my Lotus 6 Ford
> Consul engine. I have removed each main bearing cap to
> inspect the insert
> and then replaced and re-torqued. My question pertains
> to the bolts. This
> engine does not use any locking tabs or safety wire to
> assure that the bolts
> do not back out. Now in the few engines that I have
> rebuilt during my time
> with old British cars I have noticed that some use
> locking tabs that you
> bend down to secure the bolt head (like my MGB), some
> have used safety wire
> and some use nothing at all. For some reason I always
> feel more secure if
> there is something solid there to secure the bolt. Is
> the torque force (7.5
> gm meter or about 55 ft lbs) sufficient to assure that
> they will not vibrate
> free? Would anyone recommend drilling small holes in
> the bolt head to accept
> safety wire? Should Locktite be used on the bolt threads?
>
> All replies appreciated.
> Happy holidays!
> Phil Roettjer
> 53 Lotus 6
> 67 MGB
> 67 Morgan +4
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