At 07:19 PM 12/6/97 -0800, Les Burkholder wrote about Les Burkholder
questions:
>I do not know how far you have gone, but when you get the body and
>fenders off, look closely at where the firewall attaches to the side
>panels of the engine compartment. Mine were badly rusted and had to be
>replaced. Again the cheapest place was the factory.
I also suggest pulling the firewall and checking the lower front part
were it goes behind the cross stringer. They rust very badly here also.
And remove the tool box and the rubber matting as the also rust there.
I would paint the lower portion of the firewall and tool box with POR15
as a primer as it is an excellent rust killer, inhibitor.
I also cut some tar paper and placed it between the firewall, and the
chassis where the firewall sits into the chassis, and put tar paper
between the valances (inner front fender wells) and the firewall.
>Another thing I did was to use a autobody seam sealer, and sealed every
>joint that water could possibly get through. In the Vancouver area we
>have a fair amount of rain.
This is a MUST.
Why do you want to replace the tub? Unless it is totally rotted, it can
be saved by coating it with West System Epoxy. The front lip of my rear
fender arches were missing. I rebuilt them with the epoxy. Sill plates
are notorious for getting trashed. These can be easily made. The back
6 inches of on of my fender wells was rotted. I cut it out and made a
patch piece and grafted it in place.
This is just a thought but you can save some big money if you can salvage
the tub. From my experience most Mogs need a new chassis more than they
need a new tub.
Finally, if you say it real fast, it doesn't sound like a lot of work.
However, be prepaired! I spent 3 1/2 years and 1741 documented hours
doing mine.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
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