MOGOWNER wrote:
>
> Thanx for the tip. Several questions, if you please. What about the chassis?
> I'm sure that there's some kick-up of the rear, and this (and possibly some
> other unknown problem) would need to be addressed prior to my fitting the new
> frame/body. My idea was to just remove the old woodenframe and body, trash
> them, dip and strip the wings and then prime them. I would then sand and paint
> the chassis (Hopefully leaving suspension, engine, etc. in place) and then fit
> the new body and wings once they were painted. Is this a reasonable scenario
> or am I missing something? I'd hate to get started only to not be able to
> complete the project and then bring it to my local(and good) restoration shop
> thereby boosting the cost significantly.
Before you start make a list of what you think you will need to replace
and get a price from the factory. Also go to your restoration shop and
get a price on what he would charge for the same things. This way you
have a comparison. Be aware that there can be no guarantee that you
won’t find something else, no matter whether you do it or the shop does
it. However there is nothing that cannot be handled, as the
construction is very basic. A friend ordered one part from the factory
and could not make it fit. Contacting the factory he said the part did
not fit. The answer repeatedly came back “MAKE IT FIT”. I am
convinced therein lies the secret of rebuilding individually built
Morgans. Obviously this is what they do!
I removed everything from the chassis and sandblasted off the rust and
found that it was full of pin holes. Had a new frame made by Mogfab in
Georgia. Using the existing frame for measuring the location of the
bolt holes. I had very little trouble in fitting the new tub from the
factory to the new frame from Georgia. I did shortened the length of
the front fender by 3/4”. This narrow end was cut off as the end plate
was badly rusted. Welded a new plate on, drilled two holes for the bolts
that come through the back fender to the running board of the front
fender. Working with the existing frame as you are there should be no
problem as your fire wall is in place and you just slide the tub up to
it, making sure the tub is equal on both sides of the frame. Before you
drill your holes in the tub for the bolts to the frame, set your fenders
in place (loosely) to see how it all goes together. Should be no
problem.
Has your car been in any accidents that you know off? Maybe have the
frame checked for being straight.
Between the frame and the tub I laid a strip of rubberized material (you
buy it by the sq. ft. or sq. yd.) that you can get from the lumber
yard. I don’t know what it is called, (can find out if you want) but it
is rubberized membrane (about 3/32” thick ) used on a roof where there
is not the standard eves trough . The factory uses something similar.
Yes, paint your car (before reupholstery) with the fenders hanging very
loosely in place. This way some of the paint carries through to the
underside. Paint underside of the cowl, and the bonnet while off the
car.
I do not know how far you have gone, but when you get the body and
fenders off, look closely at where the firewall attaches to the side
panels of the engine compartment. Mine were badly rusted and had to be
replaced. Again the cheapest place was the factory.
Another thing I did was to use a autobody seam sealer, and sealed every
joint that water could possibly get through. In the Vancouver area we
have a fair amount of rain.
No, I do not think you are missing anything. Sounds like you are a
handy person . If you run into trouble there are a number of us out
here to give you advice. It is a fun project. Hope this is some help
to you.
Somewhere I have missed your name?
Les
ps: Do not throw out the old tub. I have mine hanging form the ceiling
in the garage. Good conversation piece.
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