Note to all who need to know more electrical bits and
don't have the tools: Harbor Freight has a cheap
volt-ohm meter that is all the precision and quality
needed for our trouble shooting. And its dead-cheap.
Take a look here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90899
rick
--- Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> Start with the two greens (these are MGB colours,
> can't be sure how close
> they are to yours) on the hazard switch. With the
> hazards off and the
> ignition on both these should have 12v.
>
> If only on one green and not both either the switch
> is on, wired
> incorrectly, or faulty.
>
> If on neither check the green wires at the fusebox
> all have 12v. If not the
> problem is with the ignition or fusebox, if so then
> probably one of the
> several connectors linking green wires behind the
> dash is corroded or pulled
> apart.
>
> If both greens in the first test have 12v move on to
> the turn flasher, the
> green and light-green/brown there should also both
> have 12v. If neither
> then there is a break in the green between the
> hazard switch and the turn
> flasher, but that is unlikely as it should be a
> direct wire. If on the
> green but not the light-green/brown the turn flasher
> unit is faulty.
>
> If on both move on to the turn switch. If not on
> the light-green/brown at
> the turn switch there is a break in that wire
> between there and the turn
> flasher, which is quite possibly in one of the
> connectors joining the main
> harness to the switch harness, which may be
> multi-way plugs. Even when
> pushed fully together individual pins can get pushed
> out the back of one of
> the plastic mouldings, or otherwise not be making
> good contact, test both
> sides of the connection.
>
> If on the light-green/brown at the turn switch
> operate it first one way and
> then the other and check that 12v appears on the
> green/red and green/white
> wires at the switch. If not the switch is faulty.
> If so, but the corners
> still don't light, check these wires in the steering
> column connectors as
> above. From there out to the lights the circuit
> *should* be the same as for
> the hazards.
>
> If they still don't work, go through the sequence of
> tests above again, but
> this time operating the turn switch on and off which
> you are measuring the
> voltage. If the terminal shows 12v with the turn
> switch off, but drops with
> the turn switch on, there is a bad connection back
> towards the fusebox. If
> you find two points where on one the voltage does
> drop and on the other it
> doesn't, then the fault is between those two points.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > ... No turn signals at all...not even the glow,
> but the hazards
> > light up.
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay@yahoo.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
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