Unlikely, both gauges would exhibit similar incorrect behaviour if it were
the stabiliser.
1 is common after replacing the tank sender, those available for many years
now (in the UK at least) do not have the same characteristics as the
originals. More of a concern is that the gauge bottom out showing 1/4 full,
and you run out! Recalibration is easy, there are two slotted plates on the
back of the gauge, possibly covered by cork plugs. Use a good fitting
screwdriver as the plates are thin and you could ruin the slot. Adjust for
F first, then E. I ran mine to empty, put in a gallon from a can, and
*then* adjusted for E, so giving me a gallon reserve.
2 sounds just like a bad connection. When the engine is warm but the gauge
shows zero with the ignition on measure the voltage on the green/blue spade
at the sender. If this shows 12v switching on and off about once per second
the circuit back through the gauge is OK, could be the sender or the
connection to it. If no voltage at the sender test on both
light-green/green and green/blue terminals on the back of the gauge.
Voltage on both means the connection between there and the sender is broken
somewhere, there is a 2-way bullet connector between that wire and the main
harness, or could be one of the multi-plug pins which are a pain to get to.
If on the light-green/green but not the other the gauge is open-circuit i.e.
loose connection inside. If no voltage on the light-green/green then the
connection back to the fuel gauge and thence the stabiliser, although this
is unlikely as my diagram shows this wire going to the temp gauge first and
then the fuel gauge.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> #1) The gas gauge on my rubber-bumper B never reads full when I fill up
> the
> tank - the gauge tops out at about 3/4 full.
>
> #2) The temperature gauge occasionally does not register any temperature.
> At
> some point later it may jump up to where the temperature really is.
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