I had always thought when retorquing that you proceed one at a time,
loosening each nut slightly, then retorquing to the proper spec. That's
how I've done it for 30 years and it always worked for me. I had an old
Toyota Celica that was starting to weep oil and coolant from the head
gasket. Rather than tear it apart, I tried retorquing the head and it
cured the leaks and was still going strong when I sold it several years later.
Don Scott
At 06:33 PM 05/24/2006, Gordie's Garage wrote:
>Hey, I've always muddled my way through, and I've never advertised myself as
>a "pro mechanic". In fact, that ad (there's only been one that I know of)
>was not my idea, nor my copy, and I've requested several times that it be
>removed.
>Nevertheless, I'm still looking for opinions.
>Got one?
>Gordie
>
> >
> > What's up with you Gordie? Last time I looked you advertised
> > yourself in the 'phone book as a pro LBC mechanic. And now
> > you're asking such a basic question?
> >
> > CR
> >
> > Gordie's Garage wrote:
> > > So, I've got nearly 1000 miles on my newly rebuilt engine
> > in my MK II
> > > MGA and I figure it's time to re-torque the head.
> > > So, whattaya think, slowly loosen all of them in reverse
> > order, then
> > > re-torque, or just re-torque, or...?
> > > I hope this doesn't turn into a cat, or towing thread, but I'd sure
> > > like some other opinions.
> > >
> > > Safety Fast!
> > >
> > > Gordie Bird
> > > '62 MGA
> > > '67 MGBGT
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