Use a feeler gauge. Many people have posted about the "reliability" of the
Clik-Adjust.
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
on 5/9/06 5:27 AM, wkilleffer@comcast.net at wkilleffer@comcast.net wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
>
> Yesterday, I did a valve clearance adjustment on my 1974 MGB. The engine's
> from a 1972 car, and is a rebuild with around 10k miles on it. I'm trying to
> do what I can to use less gas and create less pollution while still having a
> fun and reliable car. This is my only car right now. I searched the archives
> before posting this, but didn't see anything that exactly answered my
> question. I've done this before, but it seemed easier last time.
>
> The books all say to adjust to .015 cold, so that's what I tried to do. I used
> a clik-adjust, which I think is a good tool, and a feeler gauge. All the
> valves were too tight when I started. I adjusted and slid the feeler through
> the gap, and thought I was feeling just the slightest bit of contact between
> the the two surfaces. It was late at night, so I didn't want to drive it. I
> started it and it started quickly and chattered like a sewing machine, but
> seemed to be running ok.
>
> This morning, I drove it to work, and the valves chattered like that the whole
> way there. It was noisy enough that I was hesitant to go up to 3000 RPM
> between shifts. Even at normal operating temperature, the valves were making
> lots of noise.
>
> Did I adjust things to be too loose? I'll do it again, but didn't want to have
> to for awhile. My commute's about four miles each way. Will driving it that
> distance do damage? Also, is it true that the valves can be adjusted to .013
> when the engine is hot/warm? Is it best to adjust cold or warm? Any advice or
> suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
> -William Killeffer
> 1974 MGB
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