The click-adjust will only work if you have no hangups in the adjusters.
Any little burr or junk in the threads and it will mis-adjust.
Sounds like you aren't full trusting it anyway, if you had the feeler
gauges.
If I were you, I'd go through the adjustment again. Carefully finding
TDC.
On May 9, 2006, at 7:27 AM, wkilleffer@comcast.net wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
>
> Yesterday, I did a valve clearance adjustment on my 1974 MGB. The
> engine's from a 1972 car, and is a rebuild with around 10k miles on
> it. I'm trying to do what I can to use less gas and create less
> pollution while still having a fun and reliable car. This is my
> only car right now. I searched the archives before posting this,
> but didn't see anything that exactly answered my question. I've
> done this before, but it seemed easier last time.
>
> The books all say to adjust to .015 cold, so that's what I tried to
> do. I used a clik-adjust, which I think is a good tool, and a
> feeler gauge. All the valves were too tight when I started. I
> adjusted and slid the feeler through the gap, and thought I was
> feeling just the slightest bit of contact between the the two
> surfaces. It was late at night, so I didn't want to drive it. I
> started it and it started quickly and chattered like a sewing
> machine, but seemed to be running ok.
>
> This morning, I drove it to work, and the valves chattered like
> that the whole way there. It was noisy enough that I was hesitant
> to go up to 3000 RPM between shifts. Even at normal operating
> temperature, the valves were making lots of noise.
>
> Did I adjust things to be too loose? I'll do it again, but didn't
> want to have to for awhile. My commute's about four miles each way.
> Will driving it that distance do damage? Also, is it true that the
> valves can be adjusted to .013 when the engine is hot/warm? Is it
> best to adjust cold or warm? Any advice or suggestions would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
> -William Killeffer
> 1974 MGB
_______ Paul T. Root
/ __\ 1977 MGB
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