Jeff,
Print the materials at the site Paul Hunt recommended, and at Chicago
MG Club' site, and read the instructions in Moss catalogue.
Their information is all good. The job itself is not as intimidating
as one might think.
Order the thrust washers, roll pin, pinion pin (optional, but I did),
oil seals (optional), new gasket. Have on hand safety wire, 1 qt
synthetic oil, wire brush, rags, drain pan, drifts, gasket goo, etc., all
regular shop stuff.
When the car is supported high in the air, you wire brush dirt from
around the differential, getting it just as clean as possible. Rags and
solvents used here will help. Watch carefully the brake line clip at top
of the diff, as turning the bolt tends to turn the clip and kink the
brake line.
All warn not to tap the roll pin in too far. If you tap it in about
3/8 inch, you can then turn the gear set assembly and grip the pin with
pliers to remove it from the other side. Go gently with the tapping,
tap---don't whack it, because too far could be very troubling.
Getting the pinion gears back into place is a visual and tactile
operation. Although you may have to attempt it a few times, they either
fit right or they don't fit at all. You can't do it wrong as the pinion
pin won't go back unless gears are positioned properly.
When the car is up in the air, you can hold the oil container up in a
fender well and use a piece of clear hose to transfer the oil from
container to diff. Leave the plug out, lower the car, let any excess oil
drain, refit the plug. Enjoy the smoother, quieter operation.
Bob
>
> From: "McDowell, Jeffrey B., JO1"
> <jbmcdowell@nmsc.med.navy.mil>
> Subject: De-clunking a rear diff
> Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 11:03:07 -0500
>
> Greetings, I'm new to this web ring and I'd like some advice about
> replacing the washers in my rear-end in my 77 "B" She's given a lot of
good
> service over the years and I think its getting near the time for this
job.
> Any advice is most welcome! Any shops in North Florida/Georgia?
>
> Jeff in Jacksonville
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