Richard
Paul is correct as usual, and I am sure someone has put your attention to
the fact that you have to do the handbrake things in a distinct order or the
mastercyl will have too little fluid to compensate.
But if not here goes.
Slacken the cable nut(as on MBG or MGC) or cable nuts (as on Minis etc)a
fair amount, then adjust each rear wheelcyl, pulling at the handbrake and
pushing the pedal at intervals to centraize things inside drum, till
satisfied the adjuster thingie is as close as possible without undue
rubbing, THEN adjust handbrake cable(s) with nut(s).
If you only adjust the cable you will not get sufficient amount of fluid to
take up the free space inside the rear cylinders, trust me I have been
there.
Sven MGC MGB Minis 1100 etc etc
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] Fvr
Gosling, Richard B
Skickat: den 12 december 2005 09:43
Till: Paul Hunt; mgs@autox.team.net
Dmne: RE: Poor brakes - and how to get to them
Paul,
Thanks for your views. I can't really say how the brakes have been in the
past - I acquired the car after 11 years of sitting in a barn, and never
drove it before I dived into replacing brake parts.
I haven't actually measured the brake travel, and I realise it may well have
more free travel than a more modern car even when working perfectly, but it
still feels like way more travel than it should be. It does lock the wheels
before it reaches the floor, but it's getting pretty close to the floor.
5 clicks to put on the handbrake (after moving the adjusting nut as far as
it would go!). Rear brakes should be adjusted right, I fitted new adjusters
(and one new cylinder) and adjusted them, although I have since been advised
that they may need re-adjusting after a few pumps on the pedal - I've still
got to check that.
I think the brakes may 'pump up', but if they do it's only by a little bit,
there's still a lot of travel however much I pump.
I've made the decision to replace the M/C anyway - they aren't that
expensive, I've overhauled or replaced pretty much everything else in the
braking system, so I might as well complete the set then I know everything
is good and new.
When I've done that, if there's still a problem, then I'll have a look at
the brake pad travel, see if that's the problem. Front brakes should all
work correctly, one caliper was a complete re-built unit, the other one I
replaced the pistons and seals, so they've no excuse for mis-behaving!
Richard & Sammy
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