I totally agree. I never use the studs. For one thing, hanging the engine
weight vertically on just the 1/4" threads strikes me as very dubious.
Secondly, it doesn't give you a very broad purchase for balance adjustment.
I use at least 5/16 Grade 8 bolts, into the block -- generally into one of
the spare holes for generator brackets on the rightside front, and one of
the bellhousing bolts on the left rear. This gives me both front-to-back and
lateral stability. I stack several washers to keep the chains free from the
surface. I have never felt the need for a tilting device using this setup.
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
PS: are we finished with the PC discussion, yet? Good grief.
on 12/1/05 10:28 AM, James Nazarian at jhn3@uakron.edu wrote:
> I've had a number of people tell me over the years that they use the rocker
> studs. When I was taking the engine out of my GT before it was a V8, the
> engine had gotten hung up on something and I was trying to free it when one
> of the rocker studs it was hanging from snapped off.
>
> Since I know someone will ask. It was a typical situation where an engine
> mount had caught on the steering column or something and the engine needed
> to be rocked to the side. I wasn't trying to wrestle the engine past an
> immovable object.
>
> I know rocker cover studs will work to remove an engine, and they are easily
> accessible, but I'm not crazy about hanging the entire drivetrain from two
> 1/4 rocker cover bolts. It was only one failure in the 20 or more times my
> dad and I have done this, but one engine nearly falling on me is one too
> many.
>
> IMO,
> James Nazarian
> 71 MGBGT-V8
> 71 MGB Tourer
> 87 325es
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