OOPS!
This is the wire that runs down the right hand fender and across the
front of the car. Since it is the resistive cable, you gotta figure
that it may have a higher resistance than a regular bit o wire, but one
never knows. I've never measured one to find out.
I think your best bet is to substitute a regular ballast resistor
matched to the coil, as used in other vehicles. Hopefully someone with
more savvy will have an impedance recommendation. Many vehicles use the
same system of running full battery voltage to the coil on cranking,
then switching to a coil feed that is reduced by a resistor to a lower
voltage when running.
An alternative would be to bypass the resistive wire and go back to the
earlier concept of an un-ballasted coil such as a DLB101 or Sports Coil.
That's what I ended up doing on my 1980 that had a similar melt down
caused by rodent chomping. The feed wire that used to go to the
resistive lead is hooked directly to the + terminal of the coil. The
downside is that you lose the hotter spark during cranking which makes
starting a bit easier.
Let me know if this is an option you wish to pursue and I'll check the
color codes and routing of the wires that I hooked up.
BTW. Moss does carry new blue harness tape, so the damaged section of
the loom can be made as good as new.
Kelvin Dodd
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On
Behalf
> Of Wil Clark
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 9:39 AM
> To: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Resistive Cable
>
> Hi all,
>
> Long time digest lurker, yearning for the day that I have my '76 B
back on
> the
> road. And now the engine is in and rather nice. However, the comedy
of
> errors
> that was loading and transporting my B back home (it's not drivable
yet
> and now
> sans front bumper) revealed a rather disconcerting problem: My
gorgeous,
> NEW
> wiring harness is fried. Well, ok not so much fried (the engine runs,
I
> dare
> not test anything else at the moment) but one wire was really hot at
some
> point. Hot enough to not only melt its own insulation, but also
split/melt
> the
> blue over wrap in several places.
>
> The wire in question is Pink/White. The only reference to a KW wire I
> have
> found is on Skye Poier's site: "Ballast terminal to ignition
distributor"
> (guess I should donate now). My wire in question doesn't directly go
> from "Ballast terminal to ignition distributor" but does in a round
about
> way... Looking over the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual I find a
> fairly
> good representation of this wire and it's connections and it happens
to
> correspond to a component labeled "62 Resistive Cable". As such it
makes
> no
> reference to color on the wiring diagram.
>
> I am hoping that those of you with far more experience than I can
confirm
> that
> I am at the right place. Mine is connected to a WLG wire on one end
and
> three
> W wires on the other. Note that Haynes shows the WLG on one end and
two W
> and
> a WN on the other while the wiring diagram in the BL _... Workshop
> Manual..._
> shows three W wires. So, do I have the correct wire/component and
does is
> have
> any special properties or can I replace it with any multi-stranded
wire of
> the
> same gauge routed with the same length and hopefully color
combination?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Wil
>
> '76B with heart, uh, wire burn
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