Okay, so I found that the Ballast wire had melted down it's entire length
fusing to the green/white going to the coil. Most likely cause was initially
a short to ground at the starter solenoid then involving a short to ground
in the green/white return line. Tested it by disconnecting the starter wire
and a temporary jumper from the whites and she fired up eagerly. Coil seemed
rather hot after 10 min of running. The next day I got a 12 v universal
Accel coil at Pep Boys and installed it bypassing both the starter lead and
the melted ballast wire. Seems to run great, but I noticed the coil feels
almost as hot as the original one did. Am I headed towards a coil failure?
Do I need to wire this differently?
----- Original Message -----
> The 'other' end of the ballast wire joins internally to a white wire that
> comes out of the loom by the fusebox. Although the ballast wire itself is
> pink it comes out of the coil end of the loom as a white/light-green
> (white/light-blue on a factory V8), and this colour also goes on to the
> solenoid. If this wire is shorting out then the car would not run
properly,
> or at all. The coil used on this system should measure about 1.5 ohms
> primary resistance, and the loom ballast resistance about the same. If
the
> loom ballast wire is burnt then you should find the cause first, then if
> replacing it is probably easier to purchase a conventional ballast
> resistance of the correct value and wire it in with white (fusebox) and
> while/light-green (coil and solenoid) wires then trying to get the correct
> length of the correct grade of resistance wire.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > So, if one end goes to the + side of the coil, where does the other end
> > terminate? I don't relish the idea of splitting open the harness more
than
> > necessary and would like to bypass the original wire with a new one of
> equal length/resistance.
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