Unfortunately, I have not only cleaned the fuse block but I have ruled it
out as the problem. Whatever the problem is, it has gotten progressively
worse. Since the gauges now have only worked briefly today - right when I
started the drive to work this morning and then for about ten seconds after
I cleaned and replaced the fuse block, I can positively tell that there is
power to the green wires at the fuse block and that the power does not get
to the voltage stabilizer. I had used Paul Hunt's simplified schematic
which showed those points to check. Also, I do not have operational turn
signals but the hazard flasher works. So I'm a bit stumped. All these
systems worked fine for the first 500 miles on this new wiring harness. At
least the circuit is pretty much dead now so it will make it a bit easier
to see where in the green circuit there is and isn't power and trace
through it with my trusty but hard to read Haynes schematics. So I'm sure
I'll figure it out eventually.
David Councill
67 BGT
72 B
At 07:17 PM 3/24/2004 -0600, Lew Palmer wrote:
>I hate to be contrary, but I have found more often than not that the brass
>bits are simply riveted on to the fiber block. They work loose, start to
>corrode, and will lose contact between the male spade connector and the fuse
>holder. The repair is to solder the two together underneath the fuse block.
>
>Cheers,
>Lew Palmer
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