Let me put it this way - I wouldn't pay that much, especially if your swivel
axles are already assembled and ready to fit. The only specialised tool I
can think you'll need is a splitter for the track-rod ends. The only one I
have found that works reliably is the 'scissors' type, however if you are
replacing them then any damage caused by the pickle fork type is
unimportant. The only safety care needed is to support the body on axle
stands while you jack-up the spring pan so the damper arms are free of both
the bump and rebound rubbers before removing either the top or bottom
trunnion bolts, then lowering the spring pan all the way then pushing it
down with one hand while pulling out the spring with the other. But take
the track-rod ends off the steering arms and the steering arms and hubs off
the swivel axle first. You may find the top and/or bottom bolts are seized
in their distance tubes which will prevent them being withdrawn. Remove the
bolt joining the two arms of the damper and lever them apart slightly, then
you can hacksaw through the top bolt both sides without damaging the damper
arms, or the swivel axle if it has to be returned. With the inner A-arms
bolts undone the front A-arm can be removed complete with bolt and distance
tube. You should have fitting kits with new bolts, distance tubes and
grease seals. There are only two nuts each side for the A-arms and bushes
which you will be removing and separating anyway for the new A-arms. You
are removing the track-rod ends anyway (count the number of turns each side
as a guide for getting the tracking approximately right with the new items)
so the gaiters are just a couple of clips. You will have to reset the wheel
bearing shims anyway because you are changing the stub-axle, the outers are
drifted out and the new ones tapped in using the old outers to keep them
square and damage free. You might like to have a look at
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_suspensionframe.htm and click on 'Front
Bearing End Float' for info on setting it without a dial gauge. Wheel
seals? Are these the grease seals in the hub? If so they are just drifted
out and tapped back in like the bearings. If you counted the turns when
removing the old track-rod ends put the new ones on the same number each
side and it will be close enough to get you to somewhere for a proper
alignment. Everything else is just common sense, typical tools, and a
Haynes or Workshop Manual/Bentley.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul M." <rowman22001@yahoo.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 11:00 PM
Subject: Labor costs
> I have a question regarding shop costs for work on my
> 1971 MGB.
>
> ...
>
> Now I realize that it's too big a job for me and my
> handful of tools, so I called the local MG place for a
> quote on what it would cost to rebuild the front end
> using my parts. They came back with around $900, or
> $1040 if the rubber pieces at the cross member need to
> be replaced as well.
>
> This seems high to me, but is it?
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