Paul,
The sleuthing is easy when fluid is dripping down the pedals. Too bad,
almost, that it wasn't that simple.
Remove the cover from the MCs and look around. MCs can leak out the
end where the moving rod enters, and the fittings to the metal tubes can
leak.
Then go down the system (systematically?) looking at each connection
and each hose. Trace the clutch line to the clutch cylinder, peel back
the rubber cover and check for damp there. That's the end of the line
for the clutch hydraulics.
Run down each metal brake line, to the rubber hoses, particularly the
hose to the rear axle, then to the brake calipers and inside the brake
drums. Leaks at the caliper are usually obvious, either as damp pads or
marks on the rotors. Leaks of the rear cylinders show up as fluid
inside the rubber cover and damp on the shoes.
If you have any doubts about the age of the hose to the rear axle,
replace the thing. It's often overlooked when front wheel hoses are
changed.
Most times you won't find a puddle under the car. The leaks occur when
the system is under pressure, as when your foot is on the pedal, and then
it's only a drop every once in a while, which gets absorbed into linings
or flung or blown away. It's not usually as obvious as an engine oil
leak.
By the way, if you do end up to replace the rear wheel cylinders, that
little tool for replacing the spring clip is invaluble. I had occasion
to borrow and to use one recently. Wish I had used one in previous brake
jobs. It's worth the cost--every club should own one and anyone
considering a brake job would benefit from having one for the task.
Bob
>
> Hmmm... My pedals are dry as a bone. How should I go
> about troubleshooting to find out where the fluid is
> going? There's nothing evident (like a puddle of
> brake fluid under the car) or anything.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> =====
> Paul Misencik
> 1971 MGB Vintage Race Project
> Huntersville, NC USA
> www.sopwithracing.com
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