As someone else posted the real question is whether they are rusted or
not. Most likely they are. That's what tears up the rubber seals.
It's been my experience that you can't usually get the pits out by
honing the cylinders, but if you can, great.
In my opinion resleeving them in brass or I suppose stainless is better
than new. They don't rust again. Seems I heard there were problems with
stainless, but maybe I'm making it up. Like there were problems with the
stainless staying in place or something -- maybe I'm making it up. You
better ask. I can't imagine you need more than brass. They're just
rubber seals moving against it.
Anyway, you might try www.brakecylinder.com. I had my TR250 brake MC and
clutch slave cyl resleeved in brass and they did a nice job. They came
back bead blasted and looking like new. The car is in a frame off
restoration, so I have not installed or used them yet. I think Peter C.
(the lever shock guy) at www.nosimport.com recommended them. Anyone
Peter C. recommends is good enough for me. Peter C. is top shelf in my
opinion -- but that's another story.
Single diameter bore MC's are $65, and dual diameter bores are $110. The
TR250 was dual bore. Not sure about the MG. I'll have my MG's done there
when I get to it. I think new MG MC are expensive $170 to $200.00
depending on the year. The clutch MC on the TR250 is aluminum, so they
don't rust. Not sure about the MG clutch master.
I didn't do the wheel cylinders but I'm thinking about it. Resleeving is
$50 each and buying new is half the price, but the resleeved won't rust,
so is the work in changing them worth $25.00?? But then I already have
the new ones... Resleeve the new ones?? Hmmm....
NFI yada, yada...
Don Malling
Paul M. wrote:
> My 1971 MGB is losing fluid from both the brake and
> clutch reservoirs. Somewhat slowly, but also somewhat
> increasingly. My suspicion is that it's the master
> cylinders.
>
> What is the current consensus on rebuilding vs.
> replacing the master cylinders? Repair kits are so
> cheap, but I'm going to be vintage racing this car and
> I want to make sure the brakes are better than
> tip-top. Any thoughts? And am I correct in assuming
> that if I rebuild/replace the clutch master cylinder I
> should also rebuild/replace the slave, whether it
> seems to need it or not?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> =====
> Paul Misencik
> 1971 MGB Vintage Race Project
> Huntersville, NC USA
> www.sopwithracing.com
>
> Learn the truth at www.misleader.org
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