Barrie and all,
I found the stock heater valve lacking in performance too and was in search
of something else, but have not found one I thought was appropriate. I
finally decided to do the modification that has been written about by many.
What I found missing in any write-up I could dig up on the net was the
washer size. Following are some notes I took.
The washers were obtained from a Sears Hardware store. The washers are
stainless steel. They are common #4 washers. They only carry one size in
#4 stainless however they were perfect for the mod. The washers have a .315
in OD and average a thickness of .032 in. You want to use enough of these
to only allow the internal spring collapse of 1/16 in. In my case it was 3
of these washers. These washers actually fit into the throat of the valve
which measures approx. .368 in ID. In hind thought I wish I had done a flow
rate but did not. I do know that it has increased markedly. What fails on
the original valve is an internal rubber diaphram which will allow water to
flow past it and out of the top portion of the valve. Considering the
rubber will probably last 20 years or so, I guess that is not bad service
for it. The heat is definitely better after the mod and can be improved
further by doing a relay mod for the blower motor. This will give your
motor more amps, being directly wired to the fuse block rather than being
restricted by the wiring size in your dash.
Total cost for the heater valve mod ..... .05 per washer, .04 for 1 pop
rivet, .90 for heater valve gasket.
If anyone needs more info, feel free to ask.
Best Regards,
Rob Geskey
Home of many Bs
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I am looking for a replacement for the normal MGB heater valve which I hear
is none too efficient. I have found a note from Jack Emery who suggests a
Carquest item as used on the rear heater of the Dodge van. The US$27.95
for the 360-410 from Moss does not seem excessive but I hear they "suck".
Anyone have suggestions?
Regards
Barrie
Barrie Robinson
barrier@bconnex.net
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