In a message dated 8/9/2003 11:18:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bobmgtd@insightbb.com writes:
> I changed the brake pads on my 'B today. I was planning to change the rotor
> also, but I couldn't get the calipers off. The bolts that hold it to the
> hub
> just wouldn't budge. (The longer I worked on those bolts, the better those
> old
> rotors looked.) I'm sure I'll need new rotors next time, so how can I get
> those bolts loose? How would a professional mechanic do it? Would he heat
> the
> whole thing up with a torch?
You probably forgot to bend down the tab on the locking tab. They used them
instead of lock washers. Clean the bolt head well with brakleen or carb
cleaner and take a close look. Bend the tabs down and try again.
>
> BTW, it was no picnic getting the brake hose off of the caliper (I thought
> it
> was time to retire the original hoses.) I started with the proper size
> wrench,
> but all it did was strip the hex. It took a big vice-grip to finish the job.
You should use a flare nut wrench on brake hoses.
>
> One more question: This has probably been beaten to death all ready, but is
> DOT4 brake fluid the same stuff referred to as Lockheed or Girling? Can I
> safely use any fluid marked DOT4? How about the brands that claim to be
> both
> DOT3 and DOT4?
DOT3 and DOT4 are compatible, but DOT3 may melt some of the rubber parts in
Brit brake systems. Better to stick with just DOT4, and you can use any brand.
The difference is the heat range. DOT4 withstands more heat than DOT3 so it
is used in racing.
Allen Hefner
SCCA Philadelphia Region RoadRally chair
'77 MG Midget (#51 FSP)
'75 MG Midget (The Project)
'99 Ford Contour SE (24V 2.5L V6)
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