The new switch doing exactly like the old one sounds too much of a
coincidence to be a fault in the switch - unless the 'old' one was
relatively new and the new one is from the same batch! And as far as I
recall the switches come with a 'tail' that terminates in a multi-plug,
which makes the chances of waggling the switch affecting a connection in the
plug unlikely. I think I'd remove the switch from the column but leave it
connected and see if it exhibits the same problem. It could be the way the
wires at the switch are routed.
Relay? Did you mean the brake light switch? I presume bypassing that
didn't make the lights come on. Did you check for 12v on both sides of the
switch while it was bypassed? If it is there then the problem is towards
the back of the car, check the green/purple connectors where the switch wire
joins to the rear loom and in the boot/trunk. If there is no 12v at all, or
if it is there initially but goes when the switch is bypassed, then check
the green connector where the switch cable joins the main loom, then at the
fusebox.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mary Kreeger" <marmail@sound.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 2:09 PM
Subject: LIGHTS
> ... Now we're back to the beginning -- the headlamps won't stay on
> unless you're using the high beams -- and, if you slightly pull the stalk
> toward you and hold it, the regular lights will stay on....
>
> The additional malady is that the brake lights aren't working. All the
other
> lights (backup lights, regular tail lights and turn signals) are working
> fine.
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|