Thanks a lot for the response.
Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> Er, if it has end play with no shims already, shortening the spacer
> is not the answer. Why not add shims until it locks up, then remove
> enough shims to establish the proper end play? Sounds like it spun the
> inner bearing and took some off the shoulder.
>
> Cheers,
>
> CR
Isn't this backward? The spacer and shims determine the distance
between the two bearings. When you reduce this distance (by removing
shims) the bearings get closer together and preload against the races.
When you increase this distance (by adding shims) you allow for some
play between the bearings and their races. Without shims, my bearings
are too far apart and therefore have more play than spec.
As to how this could be true, I see a few possibilities.
-My spacer could be larger than spec.
-The stops for the bearings races in the hub could be too close together.
-The new bearings could be narrower than they should be.
Except for the third option, I don't see how this hub could ever have
been set up properly. Given that the oil seal collar is pretty beaten
up and that the hub had a ton of play (with as shim pack of about
0.020") when I embarked on this project, I suspect that this hub has
always been out of spec. I ordered a new oil seal collar and a new
spacer just to see if it is different. I really should pull the other
side apart to measure everything up for comparisons sake, but I just
greased it up and the split pin is already installed...
Actually, this reminds me of another question I had about the front
hubs. My car did not have the grease retaining caps, so I ordered a new
pair from Moss. It is not at all clear how these should be installed.
Any suggestions?
Jim
--
Jim Feyrer
1968 MGB
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