Eric J Russell wrote:
>
> I can think of two things to check.
>
> 1. What type of distributor are you using? There is a small wire
> inside the points type distributor that can break after years of
> flexing. Often it looks OK externally but the strands may be broken
> inside the insulation. If the strands are in contact with each other
> the car will run fine. As they lose contact, you lose spark. Use a
> test light or ohm meter and pull & tug on the small wires to see if
> there is a problem. I don't know nuttin about the 'pointless'
> distributors.
>
> 1a When you experience power loss, check to see if your coil is hot
> (ie too warm to put your hand on for more than a few seconds). I have
> experienced coils going bad that work OK if they are cool but quit
> when they get hot (and then work again when they cool off...)
>
> B. How is your fuel pump functioning? There is a set of points inside
> the original SU pump. As they wear & arc, the pump can function
> intermittently. Since your float bowls will hold a small quantity of
> fuel, you might not notice the pump running erratically. On occasion,
> however, perhaps the pump does not 'restart' and you are running out
> of fuel. The SU pumps will often start working again (for a while) if
> they are jarred. I remember trying to get my MGA home with a dodgy
> fuel pump by aiming for bumps in the road when I'd feel the car lose
> power. If that didn't work I'd get out, reach under the right side and
> whack the pump until I heard it start clicking again.
You can usually accomplish the same results by switching the ignition
off and on again quickly. This cycles the pump and will usually get it
started again.
-Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com
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