Jim,
In the workshop manual somewhere is minimum thickness allowed for the
rotors. That is measured on the clean, rubbing surface. You don't need
to be concerned about rust ridges on the unswept surface, but don't
measure there either. If the thickness is within specs and the rotor
appears good, then try reassembling and driving the car.
But if the rotors are ready for replacement, or if you can't clean up
the surface rust, replacement and getting the settings right is
straightforward.
There has been some debate about doing it per the MG Manual or leaving
out the spacer (Moss 264-620). My opinion is that MG's accountants would
not have allowed that piece to be in there unless they felt it was
worthwhile. Use it.
When you go to set up the hubs, you will find that the adjustment is
measured by a clock (dial) gauge and the clearance is set by the shims
(moss 263-500 etc) You won't know which, if any, you need until you go
to put it all together, so I suggest that you buy a few of each size.
The old ones should be good and you may not even need any new ones. To be
hung up for a week because you didn't have ten bucks worth of excess
shims would be grim.
Go by the instructions in the book. Use oil on everything as you set
up the bearings, shims and spacers. Get the clearances right, then
disassemble, clean again, pack bearings and reassemble just as you did it
moments before.
Bob
On Tue, 03 Jun 2003 17:17:25 -0400 James Feyrer
<james.feyrer@Dartmouth.EDU> writes:
> As I turn to the fronts, I am wondering whether I need to replace
> the rotors. They are unscored and basically clean, with a bit of
> surface rust on the contact surfaces and more serious rust on the edge
of
> the disk. The front brakes worked well before I put it away, but the
> rotors are the ones that came with the car.
>
> The front suspension was rebuilt about 15 years (and no more than
> 20,000 miles), so I suspect that the front wheel bearings are fine, so
I
> will be pulling the hubs purely to get at the rotors. The cost of new
> rotors seems reasonable, but I am leery of pulling off the front hubs
if I
> can avoid it. Is this a complicated/difficult job? Any suggestions?
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Jim Feyrer
> 1968 MGB
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