Removing the tank vent/recovery system should not be difficult. Moss does
have good pictures under fuel system/emmission. You do need to block
off/seal off the vent line, as well as using a vented cap. At that point
it would make sense to also remove and/or disconnect/plug anything that
the canster lines go to (mostly carbs). You should be able to remove the
anti-run-on valve too (which should no longer be needed).
Phil Bates
'67 MGB
'58 MGA
> Jim Juhas wrote:
> > I have a 1970 (mostly) MGB with what appears to be a vapor
> > canister in the right rear of the boot. And I have the
> > strong aroma of gas when driving, but no obvious leaks. I
> > haven't dropped the tank yet, and I suspect rust through on
> > the top. Last rear, when parked with a full tank on a slope
> > nosed down I got a gas spill. (On my asphalt driveway, big
> > hole.) I attributed the leak to fuel pump fittings, but
> > that wasn't conclusive.
>
>
> Sounds like a gas tank problem.
>
>
> > Questions:
> > 1. Where does the vent line from the canister go to? I'm
> > hoping against hope that my problem is there.
>
>
> The pictures on Moss's website can't be beat for this question.
>
> The thing in the tank is the Vapor Separator. The lower end goes to the
> tank (obviously), the other goes to a fitting in the front right, that
> is a pipe to the engine bay. It then connects to the charcoal canister
> in the rear right of the engine bay.
>
>
> > 2. Are there any significant issues with going to a
> > non-vented tank from an earlier car? Anything other than a
> > vented cap that would have to be added?
>
> Don't know. I'd rather have a working system, though.
>
> > If it's not a problem, could anyone who might reply copy it
> > to my email address? I subscribe to the digest, so I won't
> > see the list replies right away.
> >
> > Jim
>
>
>
> --
> Paul T. Root
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