What you describe as the 'middle' piece is what many refer to as the
'inner'. I've not done it but if I were removing all three and the
castle-rail then I would be planning on supporting the length of the floor
that side, the engine and transmission cannot be relied on as they have
rubber mounts, of course. The finished structure is incredibly strong and I
would expect negligible sag when down on its wheels if welded properly. I
presume you are replacing because of corrosion. Unless it is so bad that
the doors currently drag on the sill tops as they open and close that should
be an indication of how strong good sills are.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Malling" <dmallin@attglobal.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 12:32 AM
Subject: Sill replacement
> I am planning on replacing the sills in my 73 MGB.
>
> In Lindsay Porter's book, it appears that he does not replace the inner
> sill. He replaces the outer sill and the middle one. He doesn't say much
> about the inner sill but from the pictures, it looks like he patched it.
> I'm wondering why he did not replace it -- maybe there is a reason?
>
> If all three sills are removed, outer, middle, and inner, will the car
> structure become unstable, will things start to move around, or will the
> transmission housing hold things together?
>
> Sill kits, such as those sold by Brit-tek include an inner sill repair
> section. The rear 18" of the inner sill are not included in the repair
> piece. Since it's included in the kit, I assume that means people
> replace all three sill sections?
>
> Also, when the job is complete, and the jacks and whatever temporary
> sill area supports are removed, will the car "settle"? That is, should I
> make the door to rear post gap be exactly the same all the way up or
> should I gap it slightly larger at the top in anticipation of the car
> "settling" after the supports are removed? If so, how much?
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