The system I use is to adjust the "mirror image" valve from one that is
fully open. In other words, divide the valves into front 4 & back 4. As
valve #3 is fully open, adjust valve #6. When #8 is open, adjust #1. Got
it?
As for clearance, I think .015 is the recommended gap - cold. Check the
manual. I now have a different valve train so I gap at .024 & .026. And,
adjusting my new engine's valve lash is such a pain, I'm glad it doesn't
have to be done often. Count your blessings with the stock system.
Here's a valve clearance story for you:
Way back when, I built a Stovebolt 6 Chevy engine for drag racing. It
screamed. But, everyone swore I had a racing camshaft even though it came
right out of the local Chevy dealer's parts bin. It idled as roughly as
does my current MGB race engine.
What I did was to install a cam from the higher horsepower (125 vs 115)
Powerglide engine (This was a '54 Chevy with 235 c.i. in-line 6) that had
hydraulic lifters in an engine with solid lifters. I then gapped it at .005
exhaust, .007 intake. Why you ask? Because the hydraulic lifter cam had a
profile that allowed it. Did it work? It sure did! That & an .040
overbore & a balance cut my 1/4 mile e.t. from 19 to 17 seconds. On one
occasion I even got to 16.2.
Last year I tried dropping the valve gap on my MGB relatively stock engine
by about .004. It didn't seem to make any difference. And, I'm not about
to try doing it with this new engine until I see what it looks like inside
this winter. With big valves that require notches for clearance & high-lift
rockers, I have to be careful. Will let you all know what I find on
teardown.
Cheers!
Norm Sippel
'66 MGB
'59 Turner
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