This has come up a couple of times
recently...and the consensus is the
synthetics do not have the shear strength
for syncrhos and such to work properly.
(not enough friction for the synchros to grab
and properly align during shifting.)
If the O/D is dropping out on you it could simply
be the o-ring seals on the valves accessible
without ripping down the whole tranny-O/D
combo.
You should be able to remove the little
plate covering the filter screen from underneath
the car and clean it out...again from underneath
with out much disassembly required.
I just paged through three different original
MG users handbooks and all three say
s.a.e. 10w/50 10w/40 20w/50 or 20w/40
for above -100C Castrol GTX
The only similarity and O/D box has to an auto
is the idea of a high pressure pump to drive the
O/D where a normal 4 banger would not have this
high pressure need. That and the idea that
the O/D outer 'cone' is driven via friction contact
not by direct gear mesh. Other than that...the auto
tranny comparison is VERY misleading.
Paul Tegler
wizardz@toad.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl French" <leylandauto@yahoo.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 8:55 PM
Subject: Overdrive fluid options? Syntech? early O/D
> We have definitly improved the OD in my car. It did work today for about a
ten mile section on the way to a show but then on the way home it got noisy
and then got intermittant again. I will flush the unit one or two more times
to see if I can clean out the crud that 'might' be impeding the oil pressure
or flow. My mechanic had suggested the use of 20/50 in synthetic as
synthetics might work better in the O/D which he had said had 'some'
similarities to an auto trans which many of the older GM units seem to limp
along better with synthetic oils. Any thoughts fo solutions on this tired
old d type box?? I would still love to figure out how to remove the bolt
that holds in the oil pump.
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