Bill Meyer wrote:
> Its been a while since I've done this, but I seem to remember using a method
> listed in the Moss catalogue which does not require actually measuring the
> endfloat.
>
> Bill
The new Moss catalogs, at least the one I have, do not have the method described
any longer. The following is similar to that description - its from a
suspension
tech session a friend and I are doing. The numbers refer to the diagram on page
205in the Haynes manual:
Replacing the hub and brake assembly. The shop manuals suggest using a dial
indicator to adjust the wheel bearings, but the following method works well.
Reassemble the bearing assembly, taking care to get the parts in the correct
order. Lightly oil the parts during assembly, and tighten the axle nut(75)
securely. Spin the rotor. If it drags, more shims (72) are needed. It is wise
to have shims of various sizes available. They come in .003", .005", .010", and
.030". If it spins, try to rock the rotor back and forth. If the rotor rocks,
take out shims. Continue this until the rotor spins freely but does not rock
back and forth. Then remove the assembly, fill the bearings with wheel bearing
grease (push in the grease from one side only to prevent air pockets) and
reassemble. Tighten the bearing retaining nut to the proper torque, and put in
a
new split pin. Double check to make sure all bolts and nuts in the entire
assembly are properly tightened. Reinstall the brake calipers. Use a grease gun
to grease the new assembly and replace the road wheel. Look for any left over
parts and try to figure out where they should go - No, don't just hide them!
Bill Dudley
'67 MGB Original Owner
'74 1/4 MGB GT V8 Project
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