IME there are two types - an electrical switch that fits in the rad and has
two wires coming from it, this type has a fixed operating point and is not
adjustable and is what was supplied by the factory; or a bulb that is in
contact with the coolant, possibly inserted in the top hose, and a
capilliary tube to a remote adjustable switch where you can vary the on/off
setting and this is an aftermarket system that usually comes with its own
fan(s). You seem to be describing both types.
On the first type if linking the two wires at the rad switch causes the fans
to run (ignition on) the rad switch is bad. On the second type if linking
the two wires at the remote switch causes the fans to run then the combined
sensor/remote variable switch unit is bad as these items are not seperately
replaceable.
I suppose there could be a third type with a continuously varying electrical
rad sensor, like the sender for the temp gauge, that goes to an electrical
circuit with a potentiometer to vary the on/off point but I have not seen
one of these. On that type if linking the wires at the rad sensor causes
the fans to run the sensor is the problem as before. If that doesnt work,
but linking the wires at the remote adjustable switch does, then the remote
circuit is at fault, but the rad sensor could be faulty as well.
What did you 'hot wire' to get them to run?
----- Original Message -----
From: "MonteMorris" <mmorris@nemr.net>
To: "MG list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2002 5:00 AM
Subject: fans not working
> Our 79B is overheating and running into the "red zone". The fans are not
> coming on, even though I hot wired them and they do work.
> How can I test to see if the problem is with the sensor or the aftermarket
> adjustable fan switch (yes, I did try adjusting it both ways to its
limits).
> The two wires of the fan switch is wired into the two wires of the sensor
> plugged into the radiator.
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