On Thu, Aug 08, 2002 at 11:47:41AM -0400, MGBracer80@aol.com wrote:
> All though I have a msd 6a box,msd wires,cone k&n air fliters, exhaust
> system (no Header) had a msd blaster coil on it but it caught fire. Took all
> of the emssions of my 1980 MGB and put on su carbs. What other bolt on power
> can I get before I have to tear into the engine? IM NOT PUTTING NITROUS ON
> IT (long story).
> Is there any one who could help me? Also dose a crossflow head help
Troy,
Experience has taught me that the cheapest way to improve the power,
handling, speed, mileage and laptimes of your MGB is by doing what is
known as a "radiator cap rebuild".
Step 1: Go to parts store.
Step 2: Purchase a brand new radiator cap.
Step 3: Drive a Miata under the radiator cap.
Step 4: Install radiator cap on Miata.
If you purchase an early 1st gen Miata, you can perform this procedure
for about $3,000. You'll boost your hp from about 70 (on a RBB) to
about 110. You'll upgrade to independent rear suspension, four wheel
disk brakes, a five speed transmission and tube shocks. Any one of
these conversions to your B would cost you approximately the cost of
the Miata.
Have you ever listened to the Bill Cosby routine about Bugeye Sprites?
"The best mechanics in the world are the good ole' boys from down
south. They can make an Austin Healey Sprite do 200 MPH. Once".
As someone who as spent the past 14 years trying to race without
spending any money, I have painfully learned various truisms.
1) Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go.
2) Balance is critical. Don't waste money on one trick item, build
everything to the same target level.
3) Power is inversely proportional to reliability.
4) You can't beat cubic inches.
5) Unless you have cubic dollars.
Unless you are entering some sort of dynomometer competition, I doubt
that horsepower is your goal, it is the means which you think will get
you to your goal. If you tell us what you are trying to accomplish,
you might get the benefit of learning from our expensive mistakes, and
we can tell you the most effective way of achieving your final goal.
Your account name is MGBracer. What class do you race it in? It is
unfortunately horribly outclassed in SCCA Improved Touring B, most ITC
cars make more power than you can get out of a street legal (much less
SCCA IT legal) MGB. I assume that it isn't SCCA E Production, just
because of the questions that you've asked. MGBs are competitive in
ICSCC production, but not if they are still street legal.
If, rather than racing, you are autocrossing (*) you should carefully
read the rulebooks as to what you are allowed to do in your class,
which I expect would be street prepared (ESP?).
In general the least expensive way to dramatically reduce your
laptimes is to improve the spacer that fits between the drivers seat
and the steering wheel. Various clubs offer open track days / schools
for about $200 per day. In the long run, the cheapest tracktime and
driver improvement is often a 3 or 4 day course through Bondurant,
Russell or Barber. When I went through Bondurant back in '87 it worked
out to a mere $100 an hour for track time, and that was in their
cars. When you count the abuse I put on my car, even when I'm teaching
and don't pay for my time on the track (just gas, tires, wear and
tear, hotel, food ...) it still probably costs more than that, and I'm
the one teaching, rather than getting expert coaching.
Changing the shifter on your MGB will do nothing to improve the
performance.
Does this help?
Larry
* I'm just teasing the "cone-weenies", experienced autocrossers
actually tend to have better car control skills than most road
racers, they just get confused in traffic is all.
--
I've found something worse than oldies station that play the music I used to
listen to. Oldies stations that play the "new" music I used to complain about.
lrc@red4est.com http://www.red4est.com/lrc
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