Emjaxfl@aol.com wrote:
>
> To answer Eric's specific question, I pulled out my copy of Peter Burgess'
> book. It seems that the switch to the 1.75 inch SUs would be in order when
> one wants to spin the engine up to 7000 rpm. K&N filters, absolutely. Air
> horns are also a good idea, although I'm not certain if one can use air horns
> and K&Ns at the same time.
>
> I have the K&Ns on my 74 B and they seem to make a considerable difference. I
> did need to run the timing with a bit more initial advance and set the
> mixture a bit rich to improve power at higher rpm. Richer needles for my HIFs
> are in order.
>
> The Burgess book is really excellent for any B owner wanting to get more out
> of the engine.
>
Yep, this is the sort of feedback that I am after (hey, I am interested
in ALL feedback and discussion though).
I am at the stage where I really want to fine-tune what I have rather
than just throwing wads of dollars at the engine et al in the hope that
it will get more grunt. And of course I want 'drive-able' grunt - the
thing still has to be nice to take on a warm evening drive through the hills!
The dyno has been been a great move because it will now give me a
baseline to work from. I can see myself getting addicted to the thing
(as expensive as it is), changing the setup and putting it back on the
dyno to see how my changes have helped or hurt. Hmmm, I suppose I have
stumbled upon (or already really knew) how the 'real' engine developers
work :-)
--
Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia
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