I'm starting to think I have the same problem. I have 3 symptoms, one
that just started driving home from work yesterday.
1. Hard starting after a 5-45 minute wait after driving. It cranks and
then gets flooded. At first this seemed like vapor lock.
2) Engine keeps running after removing key. Jiggling between accessories
and ignition usually gets it to quit. This didn't happen before I pulled
the engine to replace the clutch. So I was kind of thinking I have a
wire
in the coil/distributer area wrong. I don't think it did this before I
pulled the engine, but I only drove the car around the block between
buying it in early June and pulling the engine in July.
And, yesterday:
3) A stutter or stall a few times when starting out at stop signs
and a couple of times at speed (1500-2000 RPM). Load doesn't seem to
be involved, as it was level or up a grade. It stalled a couple of times
at stop lights (where people couldn't figure out when to take their
turn)
but immediately restarted.
Kind of a scary trip home.
Last week, I put in a new fuel filter and gas line from the fuel filter
to the carb. I re-routed it around the master cylinders, to minimize
heat (heat shield missing) to the gas line.
I'm not sure these are all related, but thought I'd put them all out
there.
Thanks,
Paul
'77 B
Montgomery Morris wrote:
>
> Thanks to all who have been helping me through this two week saga of
> tracking down an elusive problem, especially for this non-mechanic type.
> Questions:
> 1. What are the symptoms of an electronic ignition going bad? Does it go
> gradually?
> 2. Same question for an instrument voltage stabilizer and an ignition relay
> switch.
> 3. Are there replacement substitutes for the last two items at my local
> auto store, if so what should I know to ask for them?
> Thanks,
>
> Monte Morris,
> Kahoka, MO
> A sick 79B
--
Paul T. Root E/Mail: proot@iaces.com
600 Stinson Blvd, Fl 1S PAG: +1 (877) 693-7155
Minneapolis, MN 55413 WRK: +1 (612) 664-3385
NIC: PTR FAX: +1 (612) 664-4779
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