Difficult to imagine what could be causing that since the starter draws many
more times the current then everything else put together. However
over-advanced timing can cause it - each cylinder fires too early on the
up-stroke making it much harder for the starter to turn the engine. You
could have tried this by disconnecting the coil - if it then cranked more
quickly it would tend to confirm the timing theory. I would also do a
volt-drop check along the heavy current wires looking for any bad
connections, check charging output when running, and battery condition.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: <wtsnyder@juno.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 1:38 PM
Subject: Starter Dragging
> Hi Folks,
> My 66 MGB when bought was fitted with a starter button in addition to the
> ignition switch, as per many older USA vehicles. Since it worked well, I
> did not change the arrangement. Recently, however, the starter turns VERY
> slow when the ignition switch is "on", and fast (normal) when the
> ignition switch is "off." My guess is something draining juice when the
> ignition is in the "on" position. Up until now I have been able to start
> the engine anyway by pressing the starter button, choke on, then turning
> the ignition switch on while still holding the starter button in. This
> morning, However, I guess the temperature is a little too cold and she
> just wouldn't crank.
>
> Any ideas out there on where to look first?
>
> Incidentally, this is another car from the one I asked about last week
> which was not firing on the first cylinder, and is fitted with Mikuni
> Carbs. (72 MGB-GT with 76 engine) .Several listers were nice enough to
> respond. One was even gracious enough to send me a copy of the Mikuni
> manual, but my problem persists.
>
> The engine starts, but runs and idles roughly.
> Compression checks out at 100-120 on all cylinders.
> TIming checked statically is OK. (Flywheel TDC, piston up (viewed through
> plug hole), rotor towards #1 plug wire contact.).
> When the engine is running and the first plug wire is removed, no change
> in running is noted. When the plug is left on the wire and grounded, good
> and regular spark is noted.
> When the #1 plug is removed after running, raw gas is noted on the plug.
> **When the #1 plug wire is removed from the plug, spark can be seen
> escaping around the distributor cap. (Blue lightening bolts apparently
> escaping from the #1 plug wire base to the block). Is this normal, or can
> it indicate cap problems? The escaping spark is not noted when the plug
> wire is connected.
>
> This problem was sudden onset after a 15-20 minute drive. It was running
> fine and began running roughly just as I arrived back home. All help is
> appreciated.
> Bill Snyder
> 66MGB
> 72MGB-GT
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