You might very well think that about the shims, but you see, as the
bearings wore, and the PO from time to time carefully repacked the
bearings, he found that the shim requirements changed, and he made the
necessary adjustments (are you laughing yet?). Anyway, that is to say
that the shim pack for your old, worn bearings is not necessarily going
to give you the proper end float for your new bearings.
Just to clarify, the mechanics of this front bearing arrangement in no
way resemble those used on American cars. End float is NOT set by
torquing, but by trial-and-error fitting of various shim washers in tiny
increments (.003, .005, .010, if I remember correctly). If you have not
read the full procedure (as it appears you have not), please do so, as it
will probably prompt more specific questions. Seriously, it's not hard to
do, but it is definitely different from what you might be used to. The
first time I went through the process, I thought it was nuts. After doing
it a few times one can dispense with the micrometer, as one will have a
"feel" for the .002-.004 end float that one is striving to achieve.
I don't have a Haynes handy for reference; I believe I followed the
procedure in Bentley. As far as what you might have missed, I would say
"shims", for certain. Otherwise I think you may find yourself in a
situation where it is impossible to achieve the correct end float. You
still have time to order them shipped by air from Moss or VB by this
weekend.
My nickel's worth...
Michael Jose had this to say:
>I have a Haynes and looked, but didn't find it. What page is it on?
>What are the shims for? Shouldn't it just be pulling the old out, putting
>the new in with grease, and tightening to spec?
>Please advise
>I just got the bearings, inner and outer, and seals, anything I missed?
>thanks again.
>Mike Jose
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
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