Michael:
The yucky coolant and steam from around the spark plug kinda
indicates a possible cracked head and possible damaged head gasket. The
late MGB head tends to crack right next to the #3 spark plug. Check there
carefully for seepage when the head is cold. When the head heats up it will
often seal up and be difficult to detect.
It is typical for the B to seep water from the passenger side of the
head gasket area, and this is not a cause for alarm. Many times if you
check head stud torque, you will find it below spec. The seepage is from
the water jacket outward and although ugly looking will not cause any harm.
Yucky antifreeze tho' may indicate combustion gas contamination which is
real bad. If that is the case be prepared to replace the heater valve as
this tends to corrode almost immediately once the antifreeze is
contaminated.
The late MGB radiator (77-80) is overkill for the engine, even at
100 degrees ambient. The same size radiator and cooling fan system was used
for the 74 MGB GT V8 and although a tad lightweight for that motor, many V8
converters are still using 4 cyl unit with modified necks.
The overflow bottle has an inlet at the bottom. Overflow goes into
the bottom of the bottle, and when cooled returns to the radiator. So long
as the tube at the bottom of the bottle is not crushed and the bottle not
leaking it will work.
As far as replacement radiators. If your tanks are in good
condition, then the unit can be recored. Alternatively new radiators are
available that utilize the 1980 temperature sending unit. Since production
was discontinued by Rover these radiators are now manufactured in Portugal
and the only reported problems to date have been bent outlets, from shipping
damage and surface rust on the side plates.
If the engine experienced severe overheating, run a compression
check. If water level lowers enough it is possible for the pistons to seize
slightly at the top of the bores. Pieces of the piston can adhere to the
cylinder walls damaging ring lands with a consequent reduction in
compression seal.
Wish you the best on this one.
Kelvin.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Jose [mailto:mwjose@u.arizona.edu]
> Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 1:59 AM
> To: Valerie Stabenow; mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Radiators- is there something better?
>
>
> I have repeatedly flushed the system, changed the coolant,
> and it still
> comes out a little yucky. I know that coolant exits the
> overflow, but it
> doesnt' seem like the overflow is even designed to return the
> coolant. If
> it is, the closes radiator and opaque overflow dont' give me
> a good idea
> of whether it's doing the job. I doubt it is. I have replaced the
> thermostat several times attempting to solve this problem,
> but to little
> avail.
> What i do know is that my father's mustang had the same
> problem earlier
> this summer, and was resolved by changing the radiator and renewing
> thermostat, flushing, and changing coolant.
> My concern is whether steam coming from around the spark
> plugs is a blown
> gasket, cracked head or worse.
> My other concern is trying to drive the car with any
> reliability in 100+
> temps in Arizona. That's why I would like to have some sort
> of uprated
> radiator, if available.
> Thanks for reminding me of the little things,
> Mike Jose
>
> Valerie Stabenow wrote:
>
> > First, I would ask if this car has a radiator overflow and if so, is
> > fluid going to and from???
> >
> > When was the last time the cooling system was drained and reverse
> > flushed? You could simply have a blockage somewhere,
> especially if the
> > rad hoses have not been replaced (they disintegrate from the inside)
> >
> > You could also have a stuck thermostat.
> >
> > I would do the easy, simple stuff first, like drain and
> reverse flush
> > and refill the system, put new hoses on and replace the
> thermo, before
> > you get into big projects like a head gasket.
> >
> > Valerie Stabenow, mga, tr4a, xk-e, tr6
>
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