Hi Steve,
Sorry about your situation. Don't panic. It sounds like you have done
most of the investigative work on your own and you sound quite knowledgeable
as a mechanic.
K.I.S, Keep It Simple at first. Sounds like it is running too rich and
yes the rings problably haven't seated yet. Change the saturated oil then
try to reset the carbs as close to specs as possible. Check and reset
timing. The leaking sounds exactly like my car. If the oil is relativly
clear it is transmission fluid coming from front seal. If some what dirty
and smells like gas then of course thats from the rear engine seal or sump
gasket. I wouldn't be too concerned about the oil spotting. Never met an MG
that doesn't mark its territory a little bit, and yes even after a rebuild.
I assume you got receipts on the rebuild from the PO when purchased. If
not your at the mercy of his word and who actually did the rebuild. I
strongly suggest that you don't tear into the engine yet. I know your
frustrated and just want to drive the darn thing. Wait to here more advise
from other listers. Also isn't the Emerald Necklace car club in your area. I
met a few of the members at the West Virginia Namgar convention and they
seemed very knowledgeable and helpful with MGAs. Can't remember their names.
One of the members had a very nice black with red interior right hand drive
MGA. (Are you out there guys)
Keep in touch with the list and they'll get you through this.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Morris <smorris@en.com>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 11:30 PM
Subject: MGA 1500: Burning oil/compression problems (Long)
> Hello Listers!
>
> I'm fairly new here, and I've only had my 1958 MGA 1500 Roadster a week
> now. As this is my first LBC, I've been one happy camper until the last
> couple of days. Now I'm kinda down, and could use some advice.
>
> I purchased a beautiful frame off restoration, with the engine rebuilt by
> a reputable engine shop. Block was re-sleeved, new crank, pistons, cam,
> cast iron rings, hardened seats and guides (no lead additive needed), the
> works. This is #15GD-U-H 6014 engine from early '59 with the high
> starter mount, BTW.
>
> Yes, it burned a little oil, and puffed blue smoke on revving after a
> idling. New rings...that's to be expected. Plus it has those O-ring valve
> stem seals instead of "real" seals. The engine had about 1500 miles on it
> when I picked up the car last Tuesday.
>
> I drove home 150 miles with no problems. Runs with 65 PSI oil pressure at
> 3000 RPM cold, and about 45 PSI hot. Idles at about 20-25 PSI at a pretty
> low idle RPM. Runs at 190 degrees F without wavering until I shut it
> down, then it climbs to 212-220 as the coolant re-absorbs the engine
> heat. I topped off the oil (3/4 quart-didn't check it before leaving, so
> I don't know how much I consumed.) It didn't smoke much during the trip,
> and ran great. I drove around a bit that evening with a big ol' S***
> Eating grin on my face.
>
> I drove it about 25 miles Wednesday, and then not again until Sunday.
> Gorgeous day, and we ended up with 112 miles of country roads under our
> wheels. I noticed some pinging on some hills, some bogging when starting
> from idle, and more smoke than previous, but ran fine. Only problems I
> had that day was flooding when I started it (One problem with showing off
> a new car, is remembering that the starting sequence is a bit different.
> Just inserting the key before pulling the starter doesn't work. You've
> got to actually TURN the key!), and running on when I shut the engine
> off. Starting seemed to be getting harder, too.
>
> I got home and checked the oil again. Whoa! I needed another 3/4 quart to
> get it back into the middle of the add/full range!
>
> I drove it to work Monday (about 25 miles total), and it starting hard
> (doesn't need choke even on cool morning. In fact, even a little throttle
> almost floods it.), smoked even more, and pinged a lot more. I stopped to
> pick up a case of oil (Pennsoil SAE 30 HD), and by the time I got home,
> it was clattering on every acceleration and low RPM loading. It took a
> full quart to bring it up to full! (The dipstick is supposed to bottom
> out in the sump, isn't it?)
>
> Tonight I checked compression (about 6-8 compression cycles) with engine
> cold: #1-150 psi, #2-75 psi, #3-75 PSI. #4-135 PSI. The PO checked them
> as all 150 +/-3 PSI after the rebuild. My first thought was a leak
> between #2 and #3, so I put the #2 plug back in and checked #3 again.
> Then switched and checked the opposite. No change. I next put about a
> tablespoon of oil and rechecked: #1-220 PSI, #2-120 PSI, #3-110 PSI,
> #4-210 PSI. All four plugs are heavily fouled with wet oil and heavy
> carbon deposits. Coolant is clear with no signs of oil contamination, so
> block integrity seems OK.
>
> Questions: Should the cast iron rings have seated themselves in the
> almost 2000 miles since the rebuild? Should I be getting that much build
> up in only 2000 miles? Should the wet reading have increased that much on
> the apparently good cylinders? I don't know if I'm getting leak-down,
> because my gauge (a good one from K&N) has the pressure holding feature
> with the valve at each end of the hose. I'll have to see if I can get the
> hose end valve stem out. The pinging and clattering seemed like
> pre-ignition (detonation) or bad timing. I checked the dizzy for
> looseness, but no problem. I haven't timed it, because I'm a little
> afraid to start it again.
>
> I think the next step should be to pull the head and to remove carbon
> build-up, shouldn't it? I should get the "real" seals in, as well, since
> there is apparently much too much oil getting around the valves. I'll
> probably have to get a valve job as well, since I imagine the seats are
> burned or carboned up with that much compression differential.
>
> Two and a half quarts of oil in a little more than 300 miles is
> excessive! It must all be burning, since I don't have much dripping when
> the car is setting not running (half a dozen dime sized spots after two
> days of sitting), but after a few minutes at idle and revving, there is
> an inch and a half diameter spot, plus some other drips. I haven't
> isolated it yet, but it all seems to be coming from the bottom somewhere.
> Nothing is leaking around the head, rocker cover, timing chain cover,
> vent, or pan. It all seems concentrated at the engine/tranny joint and
> back, including the tranny drain plug, frame crossmember, and bell
> housing weep hole. This can't be crankcase overpressure can it, since
> nothing seems to be coming out the vent pipe?
>
> I sure am disappointed! I bought a completely restored car because I
> didn't want to have to do anything major this time. I've had other
> project cars and know how long they can drag on. This time I went for the
> instant gratification. Can I start this car in this condition, and more
> important, will running it do any further damage? Does an octane booster
> help to combat pre-ignition? (seems like it would do the opposite) Am I
> going about this in the correct sequence, or am I overlooking something
> obvious?
>
> I think I'm going to need some professional help on this one. Does anyone
> have any opinions or recommendations on Omni Specialties in Cleveland,
> Ohio or Pierre Goasdoue's Upstairs/Downstairs British Car Specialist in
> Mansfield, Ohio? Any one else in the Cleveland area I should look into? I
> talked to Pierre on the phone before I bought my car about another one,
> and he seemed a really helpful guy.
>
> If anyone has any advice, questions, or suggestion, I sure would be
> appreciative! I'd sure rather be driving my new little red MG than have
> it in the garage with the bonnet up and smelling like the corner oil
> recycling station!
>
> Thanks for any help that can be offered,
> Steve
>
> Steve Morris
> Avon, Ohio
> 1958 MGA 1500
> Red/Black
>
>
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