----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Beavis <sbeavis@solartron.com>
To: _MGs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 10:16 AM
Subject: Bought the MGB!
> After my first 'Newbie' post the other day about the MGBGT we were going
to
> buy, you'll be glad to here we've done it! We are now MG owners!
Congratulations, now the fun starts.
> - The steering was rather heavy. Is this just because it is rear wheel
drive
> or maybe something else like tyre pressures?
Could be front tyre pressures low (normal is 21), but then again MGBs are
heavier than modern cars - especially Minis!
> - There was very slightly play in the steering. Seemed like worn track rod
> ends or maybe wear in the steering UJs.
Possibly, but this is an MOT failure point. How old is the MOT? My 75 V8
has rotational play in the steering, but it is in the collapsible column and
not the UJ or anything else further forward. This seems not to be an MOT
failure. Clamp some mole wrenches onto the shaft above the UJ (or top part
of the UJ) and hold them still while gently moving the wheel. If the wheel
moves and the wrench doesn't then it is in the column.
> - The overdrive worked ok, but the chap said it takes longer to engage
when
> the engine is cold. Is this normal? Why does engine temperature affect the
> overdrive actuation delay?
Yes, some seem more temperature sensitive than others. It is gearbox temp
more than engine, but the two are related, of course.
> Is it hydraulic or electromagnetically operated?
Both. An electrical signal operates a solenoid which opens a valve allows
oil to operate the Gubbins inside.
> (I have got a haynes, better start reading!). He said never use overdrive
in
> reverse. I am now worried I'll accidentally leave it switched on! Any tips
> here?
The gearbox should have a safety lock-out switch (electrical) that only
allows the OD to operate in 3rd and 4th. If it doesn't engage in 1st and
2nd then it is almost certainly not operating in reverse. If the lock-out
switch is permanently closed (i.e. it engages in 1st and 2nd) and you drive
fast enough in reverse to engage OD then you will wreck it.
> - The guy said that the rubber cross things in the prop shaft UJ had
slight
> play. Is this serious? and if so is it hard to renew them?
Rubber in the prop-shaft UJs? It's not like my old Mini which *did* have
rubber UJs in the drive-shafts, MGB UJs are all-steel (Hmmm, I'm beginning
to wonder just how much the PO knew about MGBs). Play can be a problem -
causing vibration, seizure and even breakage in extreme cases. Get under a
*safely* supported car i.e. axle-stands or ramps, never jacks, grasp the
shaft either side of each UJ, twist in opposite directions and see how much
play there is. Also check how much play there is in the diff by trying to
rotate the rear flange while both rtear wheels are on the ground. Play here
can cause 'clunks' but is not dangerous. Original UJs tended to be sealed
for 'life' (a relative term), many replacements come with grease nipples.
Replacement can be a fiddle - forcing the old caps out of the yokes but is
doable with a couple of sockets and a big vice in all but the worst of
cases.
Enjoy!
PaulH.
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