>Weld short sections on opposite sides then gradually fill in the gaps.
I agree, tack welding is essential on this job.
Should you DIY? Yes. When I did mine, I bought a flux core unit for about
$200 and practiced for a few weeks on scrap MG metal, then plowed into it full
steam. A quote of $2000 without parts from a local shop told me to learn or be
poor. In about a year, I replaced floor pans, inner, outer sills, the
crossmember, some of the metal on the rear quarter panels, and tons of other
spots on my GT.
The other suggestions I would add are to be sure you are dealing with perfectly
clean metal. The weld will hold longer and stronger and will make for a
smoother seam. I went through tons of 1 1/2-inch metal buffing wheels (course
grade) during my "gonzo" welding period.
Also, be sure to clean the weld after your finished. Do not let it sit in open
air for weeks. Apply primer when you’re done for
the night. This will help prevent rust from creeping into the new welds and
you can always buff the metal to overlap a weld. And above all get heavy
leather gloves. That metal is very sharp and very painful when it cuts into
soft skin!
as they say "just do it."
Good luck
Jim Porco
1971 BGT - still need to get that tranny back where it belongs.
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