I'll have to agree with Paul on this. I've replaced the boots on three
different MGs. And each time, the tie rods would not come out at all, using
tricks like beating on them or putting a jack underneath them. I finally
bought a pickle fork (as it is called) that easily forces them out.
However, doing that, it is best to replace the tie rod ends since the
rubber might be damaged in the removal. At $15/pair, I figured it was no
big deal. The pickle fork was another $10 at NAPA.
But if you use Paul's suggestion, you just unscrew the tie rod ends after
marking the position they are at. You would have to this anyway if you
removed the tie rods ends so you can keep your front end alignment intact.
David
67 BGT
71 BGT
At 07:49 PM 5/29/00 -0400, wizardz@toad.net wrote:
>Someone just recently made this suggestion to me which worked
>well if you really don't want to hassle with separating them.
>
>Loosen... and then just snug tighten the tie rod end lock nut.
>wrap a piece of masking tape around the tie rod right up against the nut
>now unscrew the rod from the tie rod end, leaving the tapered ball
>joint untouched and still attached to the steering arm.
>
>Makes it easy to change boots on the rack, etc.
>
>You can also measure a distance up the arm the tie rod end
>for a reference of how far to screw it back in.
>But the nut should still be marking exactly how far back in
>to screw the rod.
>
>Paul Tegler wizardz@toad.net http://www.teglerizer.com (new
>format)
>
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