At risk of putting words where they don't belong, but to prevent confusion
among the less proficient on the list, may I assume you intended to say
"badly ground camshaft" rather than "crankshaft", Paul?
Lawrie
British Sportscar Center
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>
To: Pointparty@aol.com <Pointparty@aol.com>; mgs@autox.team.net
<mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, April 06, 2000 1:14 AM
Subject: Re: clicking/ticking valve noise diagnosis
>I too have had a loud click plus some general clatter for 25k miles and 10
>years and not been able to eliminate it through correct valve adustment
>using the Rule of Nine. However I have only just discovered that if I turn
>the crankshaft a little past the Rule of Nine point when adjusting valves 6
>and 8 the gap goes up (to 21 in the case of 8) and similar for 7 but
>*before* the optimum point. Setting the *maximum* gap correctly,
regardless
>of the Rule of Nine, has resulted in an amazingly quiet engine. However I
>am now concerned that too quiet may not be a good thing and would prefer to
>hear the clatter and know that the gaps were at least big enough,
>particularly as the UK has just lost leaded.
>
>A badly ground crankshaft seems to be the concencus of the problem here,
>although the engine is a Gold Seal and they can be better than the
>originals! I don't think it is wear because the clearances have hardly
>changed over the aforesaid 25k miles and 10 years.
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Pointparty@aol.com>
>To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 8:50 PM
>Subject: clicking/ticking valve noise diagnosis
>
>
>> Looking for advice, counsel or informed opinions:
>>
>> My 71B gt with 97K miles on original engine with rebuilt head at 70K.
has
>a
>> valve nioise which we are certain is in the #3 counting from the front.
>It
>> runns fine, good oil pressure, nothing has changed. I have had two
>trusted
>> MG pros check and recheck valve adjustments and everything is proper.
>>
>> Thre are two distinct opinions as to what is the cause:
>> one opinion is the rocker arm assembly needs to be replaced with a
>refubished
>> rocker arm assembly, or in a pinch the suspect rocker arm and bushing
need
>> replacement but the labor is almost as much as replacing the whole thing;
>> the second opinion shared by two more experts is that the camshaft is
worn
>> and should be replaced. This opinion includes the advice to remove the
>> rocker arm shaft assembly first and check for movement of the suspect
>rocker
>> arm.
>>
>> Generally it is said that this is not a cause for alarm or immediate
>concern.
>> Some people say they drive their MGs for years with the valve noise as
>long
>> as nothing else fails that demands going into the motor. Is that for
real
>or
>> will I wear out the engine or have microscopic pieces of MG in my oil?
>>
>> I can buy a refurbished complete rocker arm assembly and have it
installed
>> for around $3 or $4 hundred bucks, but if that is not the cause I still
>have
>> to put a cam in and that means taking off the radiator, and all that
stuff
>in
>> front of the cam access plate.
>>
>> Then the agony of going deeper and deeper into the black hole of the
>engine,
>> until I remove the block, and while I'm at it may as well rebuild the
>clutch
>> parts, rebuild the transmission, front suspension, spend thousands, have
>> parts all over the house, and my wife throws me out. I've been there,
>done
>> that with a midget that I had to sell in order to get to sleep in the big
>bed
>> again.
>>
>> Advice please, drive as is or ?????
>>
>> thanks....Mel
>
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