Thanks for all the pointers guys. Especially on the installation of the
side strip after the new paint job. I never would have thought about the
paint gettiny marred during that procedure. The rust problem is never far
from my mind. In fact, as a part of this little project, I'm going to
go over my floors with Por15. The driver's side may even get replace as it's
got one small (1/2 to 3/4 inch diameter) hole. I figure get them squared away
now before it spreads and become a major problem.
So far, things are going very nicely. The dents are coming out, and if things
continue to go as well as they have so far, I'll need only the barest minimum
of body filler to do an excellent job straightening her out. I'm thinking
about
chronicalling the whole projest with photos, then maybe put up a website on
the project. I figure that way I might be able to show any tips or tricks I
learn that might help someone else later.
For the side strip installation, I'll probably combine both of those ideas.
Thanks again ! Now if I could only find a local source for paint in the
original 1975 tahiti Blue shade, I'd be all set a good to go.
>===== Original Message From "David Hill" <Davhill@btinternet.com> =====
>Hi Joe,
>
>A tip which works for me. Tear/cut out some 2" squares of thickish
>paper-like cartridge paper. Then, poke each rivet/washer assembly through a
>paper square and rivet the assembly onto the car.
>When you clip (bash) the side trim on, this stops the paint getting chipped
>as the trim springs into place. Then, just tear the paper squares off last.
>
>Have fun.
>
>Dave Hill
>
>
>Can I Telework for you? See what I do, at...
>http://www.angelfire.com/biz4/davtel/index.html
>Troubled by a phobia? Know someone who has one? Go to...
>http://www.angelfire.com/de/ukphobias/index.html
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>
>To: Joe Short <buster_balz@operamail.com>; MG Mail list <mgs@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 9:02 PM
>Subject: Re: Side molding question
>
>
>> Each section has one nut, otherwise they just pop off/onto dished washers.
>> Once they nut is loose the strips can be levered off carefully whilst
>> protecting the paintwork, or given a good pull according to circumstance.
>> There is (or used to be) a fitting kit for the side mouldings that
>includes
>> the nuts and special bolts plus pop-rivets with dished washers. I found
>the
>> pop-rivets were too short to go right through repaired panels (they just
>> expanded in the hole cracking the paint) so transferred the dished washers
>> over to longer-reach pop-rivets, which I dipped in Waxoyl before fitting.
>>
>> PaulH.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Joe Short <buster_balz@operamail.com>
>> To: MG Mail list <mgs@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 10:41 PM
>> Subject: Side molding question
>>
>>
>> > I started the body work on my '75 B roadster recently. Figure it'll look
>> > kind of dumb with a nice new bumper and hood, while the rest of the car
>is
>> all
>> > dents and dings. Got a question though. How do I remove the silver body
>> side
>> > molding strips that run the length of the car ? I found the nut at the
>> front
>> > of the car, but what about the rest of the the way ? Do I need any
>special
>> > tools ?
>> >
>> > Joe
>> > '75 B Roadster
>> > Lowered and loud.
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
Joe
'75 B Roadster
Lowered and loud.
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