Hmmmm... by that logic, you would always disconnect the "hot" battery
cable when working on your engine. Tried that once (wasn't thinking
clearly), and my wrench touched the rim of the battery well while I was
loosening the nut. Needless to say, I won't do that again.
As for your argument, either way cuts the circuit. The idea, however, is
not to have the frame of the vehicle connected to the battery, as the
frame is a much bigger "target" for generating shorts, compared to the
starter/ignition leads (see example above).
James Nazarian Jr had this to say:
>I disagree. I would want it on the hot side to cut off power. Part of
>spec for the placement of the switch in race cars is that it must be close
>to the battery. This, I beleive, is to cut off power to the hot lead to
>not only stop engine, but remove power from wiring so that there are no
>shorts that could spark against the body as start a fire. I think.
>
>James Nazarian
>'71 B roadster
>'71 BGT rust free and burnt orange
>'74 BGT going by-by soon
>'63 Buick 215
>
>On Wed, 9 Feb 2000 Ajhsys@aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 2/9/00 3:21:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>> doddk@mossmotors.com writes:
>>
>> << The battery cut off switch can be on either the hot, or ground lead.
>> Since this is something that is getting stuck into the car, the ground side
>> would be safer, as the exposed terminals will not be a shorting hazard. >>
>>
>> - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>>
>> That makes sense. All the switches I've seen have big exposed terminals on
>> the top. I guess you could use the cable boots that are used on starters
but
>
>> they never seem to fit very well.
>>
>> Thanks, Kelvin.
>>
>> Allen Hefner
>> SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward
>> '77 Midget
>> '92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
>>
>
>
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