In a message dated 01/02/2000 4:40:18 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dmclaren@sympatico.ca writes:
> 1. The Haynes book says to replace the oil pump if more than 6 thou.
> clearance on the rotor.
> Mine has 8 thou clearance looks like something ugly went through it. It
> is not smooth. Should I replace it?
Not only yes but hell yes, to not replace it would be foolish.
> 2. The previous owner/rebuilder must have had shares in Dow Corning.
> There was silicone on the water pump, oil pan, rocker cover + + +. It
> has been my intention to keep it pure and just use new gaskets
> everywhere but I am now thinking that maybe some places should have
> either silicone or gasket
> cement or whatever for a reason. It will be much easier to put it on now
> that later. Are there places where it should be used?
The side covers are leakers and can use some type of sealant. Gasketcinch on
the waterpump gasket can make removal easier later on.
> 3. I have been reading the many ways to get the front bolts undone on
> the oil pan when the engine is in the car and I am considering grinding
> the lip off of the front of the pan to allow a wrench in there later if
> necessary. Is the flange lip structurally necessary or am I OK to remove
> it?
I wouldn't grind it off, after all in point #2 you wanted to keep the car
"pure". Go buy a 1/4 socket with a built in universal, also if you do the
job right you may never have to take the pan off.
> 4. Are there any things I should be aware of such as "Don't forget to
> put the aligning washer on the rocker gear before you torque
> everything." I am getting pretty good with the torque wrench. I had to
> remove the pistons again because I didn't rotate the rings so the gaps
> were 90 deg. out of alignment. (A mind is a terrible thing to lose.)
The one item that leaps to mind is to make sure that the oil pressure relief
valve is in correctly BEFORE installing the engine, it is just a joy to mess
with after.
Hope this helps,
Rick Ewald
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