No wonder people drive armor plated, crash-proof Hummers. Anyone know where I
can buy a good
SUV? How about one of those Chevy SubDivisions? Cheese cloth for a filter? Oh,
gawd! I hope you
guys drive far, far away from other cars.
Oh, yeah; almost forgot. . . IMHFO.
Jim
wizardz wrote:
> I do it too! 30 years worth or mechanics work.. and specifically nearly 25
> different LBC's ...I've always run a tube back up to my resevior from whatever
> nipple I'm bleeding so I don't have to keep refilling it.
> If you're concerned about crap in your system... you should be
> flushing it to begin with. If you're really worried about recirrculating
> some tiny pieces of crud, a small piece of cheese cloth and a rubberband
> as a filter on the end of the hose solves that.
>
> Paul Tegler
> OBie - 1973 BGT - Daily Driver
>http://www.teglerizer.com/mgstuff/ob_description.htm
> Rat - 1980 Spitfire w/ O/D - in re-hab
>http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit80.htm
> Punkin' - 1978 Spitfire - in Superb Shape!
>http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit78.htm
> Greene - 1972 Round Wheel arch MG Midget in the works
> email: wizardz@toad.net http://www.teglerizer.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rocky Frisco <rock@rocky-frisco.com>
> To: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, November 04, 1999 12:44 AM
> Subject: Re: Clutch Bleed
>
> James H. Nazarian wrote:
> >
> > Hi List,
> >
> > I received a general message today that relayed an idea for bleeding the
> > clutch slave cylinder. It seems the recipient was advised to run a tube
> > between the clutch slave cylinder nipple and the Master Cylinder lid,
> > and pump the hell out of the clutch. The idea sounds clever until you
> > realize that besides removing air, you will very likely pump a piece of
> > dirt into your MC that could result in you losing your brakes or clutch
> > at a most inopportune moment. I can assure everyone, it does not take
> > much of a speck of rust to block the replenishment orifice in the MC of
> > an MGA 1500/1600.
> >
> > NEVER REUSE BRAKE FLUID. Even if it is for the clutch. There are some
> > very small orifices in the hydraulic cylinders that can be obstructed by
> > some surprisingly tiny bits of dirt or rust. One of the listers told you
> > the correct procedure and proper sequence of tighten nipple, press
> > clutch, loosen nipple, tighten nipple, release clutch, etc. Follow his
> > instructions, and DON'T PUMP ANY FLUID BACK INTO THE MASTER CYLINDER:
> > DON'T!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> >
> > For safety reasons I feel obliged to alert the list. It is not done to
> > embarrass anyone. We are all here to learn from each other's
> > experiences, and to share our own knowledge. So it is with the best
> > intentions that I say, DO NOT PUMP FLUID BACK INTO YOUR MC. PLEASE!!!
>
> Let's name names. I, Rocky Frisco, said that's how I bleed my brakes and
> clutch, and have been doing it that way without problems. First I drain
> the lines entirely and then refill with new fluid. Where's this piece of
> dirt going to come from? If it's already in the brake lines, after
> draining completely and refilling (deosn't everybody do this?) I will
> see it coming through the clear plastic line. That's why I specified
> clear plastic line and watching what's coming through it, bubbles, etc.
>
> This procedure is standard operation to bleed and prepare American
> vehicle master cylinders and I've found it also works well when an
> English or German MC will sometimes not set up on its own. My method
> just adds the rest of the system. I've rebuilt lots of master cylinders,
> admittedly not every model used on LBC's, but many of them. I've not
> noted any tiny orifices that might cause the brakes or clutch to fail if
> blocked by a speck of dirt.
>
> I have *never* yet seen a British car get fully bled by using the pump,
> loosen, tighten, pump, loosen, tighten, pump, fill etc. etc. method
> loved so well by American mechanics. It always leaves some air in the
> system. The difference between this and a really air-free system is
> unmistakable. Besides the recirculating bleed, I also put pressure on
> the brake pedal overnight after renewing the fluid. Not completely sure
> why, but this hardens the pedal even more.
>
> My alternative bleeding method is tube-in-bottle, open bleeder, pump
> slowly until no more air is visible (somebody else keeping the MC full).
> This gets better results than the pump-up method, but still not as good
> as the recirculating method.
>
> I understand it's common for people to leave the brakes and clutch
> hydraulics alone until something breaks. Most owners won't pay any
> attention to the brakes until the pedal sinks toward the floor or they
> find a bad leak and fluid all over the driveway or they hear
> metal-to-metal when they stop. I renew the whole system, metal lines,
> flex lines, cylinders and all, at least once every five years and I
> drain and refill with fresh fluid when I do the prep for the season
> change in the fall and spring.
>
> Tapping on the cylinders and lines will almost always dislodge more air.
>
> Perhaps I erred in taking for granted nobody would pump old, dark,
> crappy fluid through a system. I don't recommend that inexperienced
> people service their brakes or steering anyway, too dangerous. This is
> something that should be left to or learned from a good mechanic.
>
> -Rock
> --
> Rocky, JJ Cale Band & Pratchett Books: http://www.rocky-frisco.com
> Rocky's Mini Cooper Page: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6437/
> Mini Books: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6437/rockboox.html
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