>
>
>It doesn't look like this went through the first two times so I will try
>again:
>
>
>
>As winter is quickly approaching here in Colorado (it has snowed twice
>already) it is time to get the heater working in the B. My fan works and
>I can feel air being blown but it is not warm. I have heard about
>backflushing the heater core and will try that, but what can be done on
>the heater control on the block to check its function? Also is there
>anything else I should check?
>
>
>James Nazarian
>'71 B roadster
>'74 BGT with one sill and few other things
>
>
>From my own experience with my 71BGT during its northern Wyoming days -
you should be able to check the valve by opening and shutting it. You will
see how it works by checking it in both positions. If the valve is open,
you will be able to feel the hoses getting warm as the hot water flows
through it. I've never known it to plug or malfunction, other than failing
due to leakage.
In my case, I ended up pulling out my heater core. Due to inner corrosion,
it never warmed up much when the hot coolant flowed through it (which I
could also tell by touch). Back flushing didn't work so what I did - which
worked - was to use coolant system cleaner available at automotive shops or
at Kmart. Its actually just powdered oxalic acid. I mixed that with water,
poured it in the heater core. Then I warmed the heater core over the flames
of my gas stove. Then I poured the greenish muck out, repeated a few times,
rinsed her out good, put it back in the car.
Well, what do you expect for an ex-chemist? You could always remove the
core and take it to a radiator shop for cleaning.
Removing the core is moderately difficult to get it out of the case but
still a one beer job.
David
67 BGT
71 BGT
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