Really did not understand the thermostat deal. Does it matter where the hole
in the blank is drilled when it is put in place. You stated the when the
thermostat opens it INCREASED by 10 percent the ability to cool. Is that the
old type or the new type, and why would that be a problem... . That is what
sounds confusing. Is it the new type that doesn't block this or does block
this and how does the blank help with the whole situation.
But one thing you can do is to open up the vents in the grille by just
twisting them. Most people will not notice and it will increase air flow
greatly. John Twist says the best way to deal with the heating problem you
are having is duck tape. Take a two inch piece of it and put it over the
gage...grin...
My A runs over 200 most of the time and at 4500 rpm for long periods
gets up to 210 or even greater. Should I be worried. Maybe I should take
that tape off of the gauge....I do need to add the felt back on the bonnet.
That really does improve things.. Makes since in that it forces the air
through the radiator instead of over it.
Also CHECK your fan to make sure it is not on backwards. Don't laugh...
About 50 percent or more of the ones I have seen are on backwards. It should
be the position that makes it closest to the radiator. If I remember right
the picture in A antics is incorrect so don't go by that. Also, even though
I have not used it, I have heard that the Redline product is helpful.
Check your A arm bushing, are they worn.. Also if you have slack in the
inner tie rod can cause the slack. Grab the boot and feel the inner tie rod.
Sometimes the steering rack itself can be worn and is a problem. The tabs on
the inner tie rod must be engaged to the slots of at the end of the steering
rack or they will back off causing your type of problem. You did not mention
if you had wire wheels which is a whole another story to bet balanced...
wont go there.
Go Luck, Happy Motoring, Let us know how it goes and what the problems cures
were....
----- Original Message -----
From: Neil Cotty <neilc@apphosting.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 01, 1999 3:07 AM
Subject: Awful day.. long
> Well I won't be driving my A this weekend after all. :(( I have found a
few
> problems. Firstly the car is getting too hot, even with my new radiator
and
> a not overly hot day. :(
>
> The car is going past 190F, to up to 200F. If I switch her off, the needle
> climbs further to say 212. At that level I think it is getting way hot
under
> the bonnet, and I'm getting fuel evaporation from the float bowls. If I
try
> to restart her a few minutes later, she splutters etc for a few moments
> until underway where it cools down quite quickly to 180F. On the road,
> moving, she stays a little under 180, which I hear is good.
>
> Anyway, Bruce at Sportsparts told me that it is no use getting an upgraded
> radiator with more fins, in fact it is detrimental. Apparently the airflow
> through the grille is so poor, that a radiator with more fins provides
LESS
> cooling as the air cannot pass through the radiator (not enough airflow).
> This has been proved here locally by MGA owners and a Radiator
manufacturer
> (I forget the name). I just wish I knew this before I spent the $350.00 on
> the bloody recore! Apparently, with the *correct* radiator, the temp will
> stay at normal levels even in the heat of summer. I also got a lesson on
the
> thermostat. The orig. thermostats are totally different to the replacement
> types, and they have a type of sleeve attached - they look totally bizarre
> compared to what I'm used to seeing. When the thermostat opens, it blanks
of
> the hole in the head that leads to the water, pump increasing the cooling
> efficency by 10%ish. Apparently, this is also a cause of overheating - the
> modern thermostat! The old Smiths thermostat is NLA of course. Well, what
> Bruce has done, and apparently works a treat on his Magnette is to fit the
> thermostat, AND the thermostat blanking sleeve, like they fit when
racing -
> except to drill a small 1/8" hole through the thermostat itself. I'm not
> totally up on all this, but I'll certainly give it a go. The way he
> explained it at the time made sense! <G> Apparently there is a mob in NZ
who
> still make the exact cores for the A, will find the info on that and get
> back to the list.
>
> Another way to improve the cooling on the A - there is two air feed
> pipes/tubes that feed the heater (if installed), and feed the carbs. If
the
> pipes aren't there, as in my case, blanking pieces should be fit in the
> 'guide' pieces that support the tubes otherwise some of the airflow will
not
> get to the radiator. Also a piece of felt should be on the underside of
the
> bonnet, and when closed, this should mate with the top of the radiator,
> preventing airflow spilling over the top of the radiator.
>
> Welll... Before all this, I picked up a balancing tool from Bruce and went
> to 3 places to try and get my wheels balanced, but no dice, all too busy.
> Great.
>
> Now for the worst news, the car is shaking quite badly, and there is
> considerable play when I hold the tyre in the 3pm and 9pm position. This
was
> not here before I did the wheel bearings. :( I retightened everything up
> again this morning, but it's back again, and I'm sure this is the cause of
> the shaking. Ideas anyone? What could I have done wrong?
>
> So, no drive to Bathurst for me this weekend, well at least not in an MG.
> ( *sob*
>
> Cheers,
> Neil.
>
>
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